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Yeah, a pic would probably help. I think I get it, but I'm not sure. You're talking about braces between the frame rails and other points under the car? And there is a lot of sheet metal that will be either totally removed or cut out, dimple died and welded back in or trimmed a little...

I don't know what you mean by any of that. But I think you have a weird obsession with aluminum. And the car is getting a real cage. It doesn't need extra bracing. IJ, sounds good to me.

Not bad numbers. Now it's time for suspension and then bring it drifting at the end of the month so I can drive it.

I think the front could be possible. I started thinking of all kinds of crazy suspension things I could do with it. But the design of both make it kind of difficult to do. And do have it designed right would take a lot of time. It's probably something I will work on and prototype but even if...

Yeah, I totally understand what you mean. But like I said in the last post, I keep falling into Supras. The first one was a good friend's and he needed to get rid of it. The second one was on a local forum and cheap and right near the same friend's school, so I got him to pick it up for me...

Yeah, they're a little bit heavier than they look. What I want to know is how you got them up on the workbench in the first place. Sub3000 won't be that bad as long as you can live without most of the creature comforts. Carpets, interior panels, stock seats, etc. And I also got rid of all...

You could save a lot of weight doing something like that. But if you don't do it right and/or it's not designed well, it will end up just being a heavy paperweight or worse falling apart while you are driving. You would also need a pretty solid cage/rear half to build off of. But that's way...

I wish, sadly no. Lsx prices have gone through the roof here recently. I have one of the bigger LSx specialy salvage yards about 20 minutes from my house and their prices jumped from 3500-4k last year for motor, 6speed, ecu, etc to 5k+ at the beginning of this year.

I found a way to lighten the engine a good bit, but it's kind of hush-hush right now until I can find out the true difference in weights. And I know what you mean, the stuff doesn't seem that much heavier than on other cars. I do a lot with 240s and have had them apart way too many times...

Is gravity heavier down under? Or are you just keeping a spare trans and diff in the back just in case? Bare chassis meaning anything that can be unbolted. We're keeping doors and door glass, it's going to be a functional street car, just not really for everyone. And we did some...

Oh and in that 550lbs of chassis weight, there's at least another 50lbs of metal that can safely come out of the car. Maybe a little more if I get creative.

I saw that, I think I even have that saved on here somewhere, but it's missing the big stuff. But still a good reference. There was nothing left on this chassis that could be unbolted besides the front tow hooks. Everything else was off. The supra probably has some of those weights in...

This could be a very good thread. The only problems I see is with the qualitative part. Most people don't have a good baseline so stiff/soft/harsh/bouncy/etc are all relative to what they've experienced and sometimes are far off what they really are. I mean people have different tolerances...

So a bare chassis only weighs 550lbs. I was kind of surprised, I thought it was going to be a lot more. I was looking around for a weight list/thread but didn't see it anywhere. And figured everyone might be interested in this. It was an 87 hardtop and everything was off of it except for a...

Sorry I didn't get to this earlier, I was hoping people with more experience with lowering springs might be able to give some insight on the setups they are running. Things you need to remember are that lowering springs are generally progressive, so they will allow the car to sit lower at...

I have never heard of it, so I couldn't say how much it would be worth. But I will say, I wouldn't trust the shocks. That's 18 years and probably a decent amount of miles. If they could be rebuilt and revalved, it could be a decent setup.

It depends on the companies. Bilstein has certain charges depending on what they're doing and so does Koni. It also depends on if it's a valving they already have or something totally custom. And even if you find the sweet spot for rebound or compression, the other side is usually still...

Can't you go through the bumper to the stock tow hook? Or am I thinking of a different car? And if your car is low and/or has a lip/bumper on it, it's still going to get crunched on the flat bed unless it's a super sweet one that can get almost flat. Or am I just crazy thinking this...

I design setups for these cars. Select the right spring rates and then valving and then find dampers that I can have valved the way I want and then put them on the car. I let the bigger companies make the dampers, I just tell them how I want it inside and what I want it to do. Good enough...

As I've said before, it's not just about the spring and the damper, the weight of the car plays into it. And you need to consider sway bars when picking spring rates. But just in general, off the shelf Bilsteins would work with springs from 400-700 for the front and 200-400 in the back, give...