i rebuilt my bottom end myself (main and rod bearings w/ arp's) checked my clearances using plastiguage and calipers, and cost me about $180.
more if you have to buy the tools.
i have seen something like that before, in the town i go to school, there is a mkiv convertable. its basically a supra body with a 2g eclipse convertable frankensteined onto it....
and also keep in mind (unless you are running a charcoal canister or have already taken care of this) your fuel tank vent is not too far from some possible backfire flames...
does anyone know what thread type is used where the hardline connects to the soft line right before the fuel dampener?
I have tried searching, but all i can come up with is the 12x1.25 at the fuel rail.
thanks guys,
-Trevor
mine is doing the same thing, it breaks up at around 5,500rpm, and only at wot. but mine i KNOW is running very rich...waiting to get my wideband so i can tune it.
i could be wrong here, but i thought that the number you should change by season is the first, ie. 5W or 10W, because that number represents the viscosity when cold, both 5W-30 and 10W-30 are the same viscosity at operating temp. the only difference is thickness when cold.
when i first start my car (first 30 seconds) it hits 80-90 (autometer mech. gauge) then once the oil becomes a little more viscous, it settles down, and that worried me...but 130? holy s**t
i was 19, got it as a present to myself after working for months on a tug and barge on the great lakes.
drove to florida, bought it, and after a little vacation, drove it back to mass. and i cant think of any car i would trade it for.
my bad, i am a certified marine fire fighter, and i cant speak much for aviation or racing applications, but in the marine industry halon is being heavily phased out.
and i know drychem will trash whatever it touches, which is why i said carry another for interior applications. however, i...
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