Need help cheap rebuild!!!!

[hatchet9mm]

I have a 91 turbo and I've got a bad rod bearing. I really only need to do a bottom end rebuild to make it run fine, but the car does have 120k on it. So I was wondering which bottom end parts are of good quality and reliability, but wouldn't put a whole in my pocket. Also have any of you guys heard of the legend of aces, cause my budget is roughly 2k give or take a couple hundred bucks, and they do full rebuilds for about that price.

 

[Shytheed Dumas]

Legend of Aces are working on my "Package 2" 7MGTE build as we speak. So far the experience has been good, and it should be in my garage before too long. Maybe there will be a short build thread to cover everything going into my car after I get it.

 

[sneakypete]

i had the block machined, painted and assembled (crank,rods, bearings, etc) as well as the head machined and rebuilt with a 5 angle valve job for only $1100 not including parts. i assembled everything else on my own. it depends on what internals you chose to use.

 

[paul0075]

i had the block machined, painted and assembled (crank,rods, bearings, etc) as well as the head machined and rebuilt with a 5 angle valve job for only $1100 not including parts. i assembled everything else on my own. it depends on what internals you chose to use.

Wow, That's a great price for all that work... Where did you send your parts?
Do they do a good work?

 

[hatchet9mm]

Thanks, for the help guys. I'm just wondering what parts you guys would use. cause I eventually want to make 350rwhp and will the cheaper parts handle that . What brands should i be looking at?

 

[sneakypete]

Wow, That's a great price for all that work... Where did you send your parts?
Do they do a good work?

I got the machining done at Royal Auto Parts (they have a machine shop). I was recommended to this shop by a fellow SM member here who has had work there. Once I got my hands on a block in good condition, i dropped off the block, crank, pistons, rods, head, bearings, oil pump and freeze plugs. It took about 2 weeks

He gave me a good deal, so i cant promise you'll spend the exact same amount. but it shouldnt cost too much more.

Jim (the machinist) was a real honest guy. You just need to tell him all the tolerances you want to use in your build, otherwise he will just go by the tsrm. I havent dropped the motor in yet, so i dont know for sure the quality of the work. But everything looks great and the clearances seem to be what i asked for.

pm me if you need some more info

-pete

 

[Shytheed Dumas]

I went down the same road and asked a lot of the same questions with the same kind of build in mind, Hatchet... In the end it was just easier, and I felt safer, to let somebody do the build who has done 7M's before with success, built to handle at least 25% more than I intend to throw at it (personal goal of 350 - 400 whp), and at a fair price.

Anyone feel free to correct anything out of line, but this is what I think I saw as minimum for my hp goals:

MHG and ARP head studs (preferred over bolts) are an absolute necessity along with all BPU's outside of the build. Stock rods and pistons will do the job nicely, but make sure the required machine work gets done (hot tank, polish crank, cylinder hone, smooooth block & head surfaces, valve job, oil pump shaft, etc). Clevite bearings are nice, but not necessary for these goals. ARP rod bolts are good insurance, but not absolutely necessary, and ARP main bolts really aren't needed here at all. New oil pump (Aisin) and a good water pump needed, too. It just doesn't come cheap.

 

[Fuzz420]

I went down the same road and asked a lot of the same questions with the same kind of build in mind, Hatchet... In the end it was just easier, and I felt safer, to let somebody do the build who has done 7M's before with success, built to handle at least 25% more than I intend to throw at it (personal goal of 350 - 400 whp), and at a fair price.

Anyone feel free to correct anything out of line, but this is what I think I saw as minimum for my hp goals:

MHG and ARP head studs (preferred over bolts) are an absolute necessity along with all BPU's outside of the build. Stock rods and pistons will do the job nicely, but make sure the required machine work gets done (hot tank, polish crank, cylinder hone, smooooth block & head surfaces, valve job, oil pump shaft, etc). Clevite bearings are nice, but not necessary for these goals. ARP rod bolts are good insurance, but not absolutely necessary, and ARP main bolts really aren't needed here at all. New oil pump (Aisin) and a good water pump needed, too. It just doesn't come cheap.

Exact the route i took,only difference is i swapped out the stock pistons for forged Probe pistons. I also did use Arp's on the stock reconditioned rods

 

[Mischief7m]

i rebuilt my bottom end myself (main and rod bearings w/ arp's) checked my clearances using plastiguage and calipers, and cost me about $180.

more if you have to buy the tools.

 

[hatchet9mm]

Thanks, you guys have really help me out a lot. Much appreciated

 

[alloyguitar]

there are rebuild kits floating around ebay for like 400 bucks, iirc.

...I'm not sure on the quality, but we've used one in an eclipse (albeit a stock one) with good results.

If you're on a budget, you may want to go that route.