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There is no worthwhile write up on such a straight forward task...you just gotta remove what's in your way. Order a new throttle body gasket...order new injector seals and isolators....order new copper crush seals for the fuel line crap that you remove... If you're installing 550's then...

Take the head back to them and demand they measure from the deck too the valvecover gasket surface....stock legth is 116mm...my head that was just rebuilt measures 115.95mm so I'm safe too use a factory thickness hg... Toyota doesn't list it's tolerance from the factory for this...my...

Keep the tripple disk and learn how to drive it... As far as the trans thing...if the car was a 2jz-GE then no it didn't have a tripple disk hks clutch as the GE has a w58 trans that uses a push clutch system which cannot transfer over too a GTTE! He didn't swap transmissions as obviously...

You'll need a friend...or be a man and use your penise like an elephant trunk!!!

Did you read my post? I already told you a solution too the pressure plate acting as a spring!

Motor I'm speaking of was an na factory original....when you rotated the #1 piston too bottom dead center you could push on the piston and it would fall an extra 1/4"! It left a very very unmistakeable ring on the head! I was going to purchase this motor but I told the seller that I wanted to...

My machnist didn't keep them in order so I'm kinda screwed....some buckets I can't get back out but all the shims spin very well....could be because he beadblasted the head....either way it's not like they are so tight that I forced them in but they are tight enough that I can't get a good grip...

For the fuel pump all you need to do is pop the small three screw cover out the hatch area...then cut the proper wires and extend then too a hidden location and wire up a 12v switch (any auto parts store has switches)...it's stupidly easy infact all you really need to cut is the positive wire...

Yup...prybar and wooden wedges as your gonna start opening the pressure plate and it will probably travel pretty far while staying under tension...wooden wedges will let you reposition the prybar without the clutch pulling the trans back to square 1. All I gotta say in this situation is...

Have you actually checked codes yet?

I'm going threw the same deal right now infact! Some buckets are tight...most of the tight buckets have proper clearance as far as valve lash so I'm just going to leave them in...once the head gets some heat they should loosen up as well as some oil...I'm not worried about it personally

You know for sure the pilot bearing is stuck on the shaft? If so I really don't know what one can do other than unbolt the pressure plate but I doubt that's possible! You may just be letting too much pressure on the trans and not letting the clutch disk slide off the trans shaft....Jack up the...

Thanks man! I have a dream

remove caliper....have a friend slowly press the break pedal to break the piston free....then try to compress it again with the c clamp.

figured it would be in another section!

updates got the head back from the shop... cleaned, bead blasted, tumbled, and scotch wheeled the intake... mom told me today that she is buying me a bic divorced downpipe.....WIN!

Yeah there is...for some reason that tsrm pic isn't showing everything!

You're in Philly?

Ps. This is the wrong section...should have posted this in the "other cars" section..

It's up too you...I personally wouldn't as hondas "like toyota's" are easy to work on if you have too...volkswagon isn't very user friendly! Is a gti direct injected?...if so that alone is a pain in the ass too work with as well as expensive! Your call but I wouldn't as you just can't go...