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i find it funny because most of our cars won't run 8psi or below just off the wastegate let alone with boost controller on ;)

i just got this parts car the other day and it had the owners manual in it. i was looking through it and found a couple thing i figured you guys might get a laugh about. :biglaugh: notice how it says avoid continuous pressures over 8psi may cause engine damage. good luck telling...

removing the oil pan is not exactly easy. your two options are to drop subframe or pull the motor. most will say pulling the motor is the easiest and i would agree. a lot of us can pull the motor in these cars crazy fast but that cause we've had them appart and don't have to fight anything like...

cause thats just a week after hg repair.... my point was that if you repair something correctly you can beat on it right away lol

uh i beg to differ lol!!! heres a vid from my noob years of me in my first supra. week after a hg repair :biglaugh: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDs91y1nYS0&list=UUTQgmvJOpFNJ1lFCIUnZVjQ&index=9&feature=plcp got the car and it rod knocked like 3 months later. then bought a very nice...

so i figured i would update this. i ended up getting the trd knob from yota 3.0. every dealer/online vendor was telling me they couldn't get them cause they're discontinued. guess i got lucky. its just what i was looking for!!! heres a pic of it. hella jdm doo. and yeah i know my shift boot is...

iirc degree on sf used a mustang tb which i way shorter than the long ass n/a tb. you can have the ic piping huge the head by the cps and fit a larger turbo. heres his thread. theres details about it somewhere in there. his build isn't exactly amazing to say the least but this is something that...

decide to just order this one. http://www.jcwhitney.com/lighted-dog-shifter-knobs/p2019143.jcwx?filterid=c2735u0j1

first time ive seen that. he sounds like some clueless kid. first big hint is he thinks his massive 2 years of experience with mk3s make him some kind of expert.....bahahhaahahhaaa

so yesterday at autocross i was at the beginning of a run. i nailed it in 1st went past the timing gate to start my run. hit 2nd and in the process of shifting to second i TORE THE FUCKING SHIFT KNOB OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!! :aigo: i made it into gear but definately fuked that run up. was a little...

the 91 is my old boss's car. its pretty nice but not a fan of the moon roof or color. it is a pretty rare combo though. both cars are 5spds which is a plus.

if you are heres one to consider!!! found it looking through my local cl. not to many left that are in this condition. just thought i would give fellow members a heads up about it. theres also a really nice mk4 for sale locally. :naughty: http://humboldt.craigslist.org/cto/2908597380.html

nice! nothing like a mk3 through the mountains. hella fun!!! fyi if you want to know for sure check out your tires. they can tell you a lot about how your car suspension is working. if you are wearing yours evenly without any shoulder wear then yes, your good to go. but if do have shoulder...

with the way i use my car not at all. if i run stock specs i'll destroy the outer edge of the tire from hard cornering. for regular street driving it will wear the inner edge excessive. i do casually drive my car around but the roads here are so twisty they wear great with me behind the wheel...

yeah i agree with you guys that he should narrow his problem down but i was just answering his question. its not that i think every motor that needs the valves adjusted you just swap in all new shims, cams, and buckets lol. on my 2j two valves are out of spec and im just gonna get the correct...

i've switch a mint(for a 7m lol) set of shims, buckets, and cams i saved from a previous motor to the head im running on my truck when i built that motor. even had the clearances from when i tore that motor down. they all ended up being the same specs from when i pulled them years ago off...

hahaha IJ i thought this is the tech section where you're suppose to go off facts not assumption. you say you ran stock links so how would you even know how adjustable endlinks perform on a mk3. :nono: granted i only have them on the rear of my car and i put them on when i did the st sway...

no link. never seen a writeup on it. all you need is heim joints, studs, threaded collars, and nuts. you put the stud in the heim joint (make sure you get ones that have plenty thread for the collar), thread a nut on down on each stud to use as a jam nut to keep the collar from spinning, thread...

lol IJ he said cheap. but i guess thats relative. heres some things off the top of my head. go throught the whole chassie/suspension and make sure everything is torqued to spec. like loose subframe or steering rack will make the car drive like ass. also while your down there yank your...

arp headbolts and a felpro hg will be fine for your goals. just take the head to the machine shop to make sure it isn't warped and you'll be good as long as you know what your doing. my truck has a felpro hg and it works great!