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you could be leaking at the intake manifold gasket that goes between the head and lower runner. theres a coolant line barb off the lower runner that that gasket seals. i like to put a light amount of silicone around it to be sure it wont leak when installing them. also to simplify things i...

so i got my new clutch in and my buddy has been wanting to race me for a while now and finally got his car on the road. sorta murdered him but hes only on 1 bar off wastegate. on the way back we raced again and i ran off wastegate which is 1 bar too we were like dead even...

i got wheel spacers off amazon. they were 12mm aluminum hub centric ones. just a chunk of metal though not the kind where they have studs on them. i got them for 67mm hub cause i figured the ring on the rotor would be in the way for 60mm ones. you could shave the rotor ring down to where they're...

nice looks like you did a good job there! don't forget to retoque the head studs after like 500 miles then maybe once a year after that for safe measures and since its so easy to do on a 7m. the 2jz you have to pull the cams.........see look something thats easier on the 7m wow lol

id just run a ebay bellmouth and call it a day. i had a cooleeze bellmouth on my car when it had the 7m in there and it worked awesome! the only thing the ddp does is sound like you have a external wastegate. i doubt theres any difference it power capabilities between the two...

wheres the pic of the block? i wouldn't mind seeing what it looks like.

so that pic of my block the hg is sitting on the deck still. heres a pic of what it looked liked before cleaned it i don't have a pic of it cleaned. i can't really see yours that well in the pic. take closer pic with good lighting if you want us to give you an idea oh how clean or not clean it...

is this the record et for a mk3 now? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTfSHpoY4zQ

you can get spacers that are only a couple mm and run them without extended lug nuts most the time. i had to get extended lugs cause i needed a 12mm spacer. had to cut them down too cause i don't i like how it looks with them sticking out. to know for sure you just have to get all the parts...

ive installed arp head studs and bolts quite a few time and YES the bolts are easier. you obviously haven't or you'd know that the studs will never thread in all the way without running a tap or preferably a chase and even then its hard to get the very bottom threads clean cause they haven't had...

i tried to tell you the bolts were easier ;)

up to you. im sure me and others wouldn't mind giving you a little dow for sharing such a cool upgrade.

running a straight edge over it would be nice if you can barrow one but really the chance that the block is warped enough for a composite hg to not seal is slim to none. every day hunderds of cars have the hg changed at shops and do you think they tear down the whole motor to machine the deck...

yeah thanks hvyman you're a true forum member!!! some of the "og" members not gonna say names but sometimes i see they wont just help other members when they need info that they know will help them solve a problem with their car. which is bs imo. thats the point of forums. you could have horded...

i got some washer off i think a late 90's prelude can't remember for sure when i got the bolts at the junk yard. they're aluminum and thicker. i could see how the stock copper washers could not work cause they're thinner and copper compresses more when you torque it down. and whoever originally...

yeah that will work. the oil feed is what you really don't want to stuff to fall down. a piece of paper towel can plug it nice. but really if a little stuff falls down the oil drains or coolant jacket don't worry about it. i like to leave the oil and coolant in then drain it after the head on to...

id say the toyota hg should be fine when torqued down more than a measly 58flbls. i personally haven't used one before though. i have used the felpro with great success. and with the studs im sure dm will trade them out for bolts. even if you have to pay shipping its not a big deal really like 5...

you can install the studs without a engine lift. if anything you could unbolt the trans mount and jack up the back of the trans that might help but most people thread in the last couple after the heads on. the studs have an allen key on the top. all the washers have to be in the head too first...

if anything id crank them down to 75ftbls and roll with it till it actually pops the head gasket. could go 2 weeks or 2 years non of us can tell you that. what i can tell you though is don't bother with arp studs just get the bolts for a in car hg repair. theyre easier to install and the studs...

yeah there isn't a Mercedes dealership around me for hours sadly. any m12x1.5 bolt will work as long as its grade 10.9 or higher. just where i live there isn't much beside going to ace. and the e430 bolt is 35mm long for reference. also the ace hardened washer was too thin and two of them was...