i guess i'll spill the beans on how i did it. i removed the screw for the afm housing which got me to a pretty high boost cut then to go further i run 43psi base fuel pressure and pull fuel on the afc which makes fuel cut go up even more. im pulling about 12% on race gas and on pump 8%. with it...
i didn't change master cylinders and my cars abs everything works great car stops awesome over and over and over yet to make them fade!
one thing though if you are pushing the car like at a track when braking after a long straight make sure to just lightly push the brakes before your braking...
not much really
walbro 255
lex/550's
afpr
safc2
aem tru boost
tail mvr44
os giken twin disk
tt hg/arp's
7m ecu!!!
oh and 110 race gas so i don't blow it up lol
im sure my injectors and pump are pretty much maxed out thats why i didnt try to run more boost. with some more fuel i bet it would...
hey sm figured id share with you guys what i made. this past weekend the was the annual diesel days at our drag strip and the day after the shop that puts it on has jefferson state diesel bring their portable dyno jet for a dyno day. ive been wanting to see what my car makes but its just so far...
oh dam that sucks.......to run that time with that mph it had to be good prolly in the 1.7 area maybe lower!!! my buddies sti swapped legacy wagon does high 11's with like 112mph cause he launches so hard and shifts really fast. its crazy how much a good 60ft drops your time.
and the radial in...
might as well post this here so its offical lol. my best pass to date. was against a 2015 zo6. it was awesome :D
have one more try this year for my fastest pass! this is on a 255/50r16 mickey thompson et street radial too just for reference.
posted this on sf but had to share it here too lol. so after getting sick of the horrible traction at our street drags i finally tried going to a bracket racing day.......and holly shit did i go faster! Today i ran my best time to date. and of all the cars it was against a brand new zo6 and was...
sorry i was a little harsh but really he should do more research and be positive he knows what hes talking about then before making a how to video.......it wouldn't have cost him any more getting the recommend rotors like everyone else that are 13" have full pad contact and are spaced out right...
thatd be doable id think if you could get a good 60ft and can shift fast. i have't had much luck getting a good 60ft and its killing my times. my best pass is a 11.9 at 123 with 2.0 60ft......:aigo:
its good to hear your headgasket repair is holding up! your goal of 350whp is very realistic with the mods you have.
what you need to do to get there is shim your wastegate actuator with two washer. it will help keep boost from fading then use a boost controller to increase from there.
run...
why you didn't just use what hvyman recommended and other member added to make them work as he intended i have no clue.
1. centering rotors off the lugs is going to leave the rotor not centered at all causing vibration and crappy braking cause rotor will be too far out ward then on the opposite...
how do you like the ebc red pads? i got the porterfield r4s for mine and they're great pads can handle lots of heat and have decent initial bite but holly crap do they make dust! it wipes off easy but its a little intense how fast my front wheels get dirty. have the same pads on the back but...
thanks guys! and yeah full interior i don't have ac or spare tire and some other stuff though. its around 3500lbs without me in it. the silvia has the full conversion and is a coupe too its a nice car. but the rb26 does lack the torque the 2jz has.
yeah just a bolt and some silicone to seal off the old return works fine. i think its a m10x1.25 but not positive. the adpator that you thread onto the n/a oil stud has a inlet and outlet port. then your filter bracket will have inlet and outlet port. its been a while but i got all my stuff off...
wow that's crazy you're the first one i've ever seen have that happen. can you see where exactly it starts to pool up? id find the spot and go over it with a small angle grinder with sanding disk then mix up a little jb weld and give it a shot. the coolant system isn't under a ton of pressure id...
its prolly the cap causing the leak. putting an aluminum radiator shouldn't cause an issue but running the stupid high pressure cap like the mishimoto come with will. its not designed to be at that pressure and will make things leak that normally wouldn't. try the different cap then go from...
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