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https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=721784581193177 1035 hp 950 ftlb. Torque

You should be running one step colder plug the ngk 6282 work well for a standard plug but when you start blowing out the spark the ngk 5690 iridium work best from my experience you can also gap the plugs down if needed. The reason I asked about your valve springs is the stock springs have a low...

A stock ignition in good working order is no problem for 500 rwhp. Things you should be concerned about is running to much timing on pump gas and are you running colder plugs than stock also what did you do to your head are the valve springs stock?

Who did you order the oil pump pulley from I can't find one?

Looks like you have a good plan in mind I can appreciate that. As for your traction issues buy some r888 and align your rear camber to zero you will not a have a problem with traction at that power level even in first gear. Enjoy driving your car it doesn't take long before you want more power.

Exactly what I was thinking

Nice but the turbo really doesn't wake up till about 18 psi I'm running between 18 to 21 psi on 93 octane making roughly 500rwhp on 6265 dbb turbo for about 5 years. I mostly run 18 psi but on cooler days I'll push 21 psi that's on a stock long block. You having forged internals and mls gasket...

Never heard of such a thing on that theory it won't stay in the engine long enough to heat up!

Yes in stock form the 2j will hold a lot more power but the point I was trying to make is the money you will spend on a 2j swap would be better spent on rebuilding your 7m vs a 2j that you don't know nothing about the condition of the engine.

I've been doing it for 4 1/2 years know. I'm not trying to turn this into a 2j vs 7m debate the 2j is a superior engine no doubt. But everybody's answer to the 7m problem is throw a 2j at it what's wrong with building a solid 7m not some back yard budget build with an owner who never worked on...

To get 500 rwhp in a 2j you need to do pretty much the same upgrades. If I where building something with a lot of hp then going 2j would definitely be something to consider. 500 rwhp can easily be achieved with a 7m even with a stock long block.

For the cost of a tired used jz you can have a fully built 7m I'll take that all day.

"And another couple comments... dump pipe from wastegate needs to be rerouted... sounds like a friggin' tractor under boost... " That's because your only running 8 psi of boost wait until your closer to 20 psi before you make that decision car sounds totally different plus the wastegate works...

A buddy of mine had a similar issue and it turned out to be a cheap 90 degree 4 inch rubber elbow on the intake before the turbo collapsing under the suction of the turbo it took about a week before they finally figured it out. I know it's a long shot but I thought it was worth mentioning good...

44 mm wastegate should be plenty for that setup. First thing I would do is bypass you boost controller and connect wastegate directly to turbo and see what happens maybe try running a 14 lb spring and see what kind of boost you can make. The manifold would not cause the boost to spike suddenly...

Your head gasket doesn't go out for no apparent reason. I don't know a 2j engine that would of held up any better giving the same set of circumstances. The 2j is a better engine hands down but they still blow up high coolant temps,oil temps,detonation and improper engine building can ruin any...

I'm running standard cp pistons. I mentioned the exhaust valve clearance because you talked about eventually going with teds high lift cams those monsters will still be open a tdc also it's never to late to fly cut your piston only thing that sucks is you already coated your piston. Hopefully...

That's surprising my piston stick up .029 from deck and with a 2mm headgasket I still have clearance the cam is 9.50 mm of lift so I have valve to valve interface. Remember your piston is chasing your exhaust valve so at 10,000 rpm proper clearance is critical. Have you figured out your...

Garrett gt3582r is also a very good turbo similar to sp 6265 spools about the same but makes a little less hp up top. Hang in there it will be worth it in the end good luck.

Sorry I tried to download my dyno sheet so you can take a look at it but I couldn't figure it out anyway at 3200 it's making 5 psi at 3750 it's making 10 psi and full boost at 4200 at 4700 rpm it made 510 ftlb of torque the only problem you will have is keeping your rear tires from going up in...