Search results

It's just a standard bolt with a metric Allen head. No 12 point nut... unless you are looking at something with ARP head studs already installed, in which case you need a 12 point thin wall deep socket for the nut, and you can remove the stud itself using an Allen key.

Well, topping that in the WTF department will be difficult. So I'm going to pull in a little extra... this little gem was pretty full of WTF all by itself, but when you add in the fact that it was made in North Korea by a director that Kim Jong Il had kidnapped for this express purpose, it...

If she is into traditional text only books, the basic one is a great choice. Battery life on them is incredible, and the e-ink is extremely easy on the eyes. If she's still on books with pictures, or reads magazines / newspapers / comics, then it's really worthwhile to upgrade to the color...

I shall see your pool shark, and raise you by the SHARKTOPUS. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U87zVkIXNI0&feature=player_embedded

Are you looking at the basic B&W e-ink models, or the shiny new color ones?

How are you measuring boost? Stock sensor? Or aftermarket? And if aftermarket, where is it plumbed?

Ya, BF is like boxing day up here. Crazy.

Actually, the vast majority of the parts just change over the life of the engine. The TPS, for instance, doesn't change with the usual 89 split, it changes twice. Both the block and the head had multiple revisions, put into production at several points over the life of the engine. If you take...

Yes, it should be plugged. It won't affect your heat - it's not supposed to be connected unless you are in a right hand drive car, in which case one of the pipes on the other side would need to be capped off instead. Several members here have just squeezed the pipe end flat and welded the end...

To make up for your terrible mistake, I think you should petition to have this thread moved into Theresa's area, post pictures of some hot young lady named Sydney wearing nothing but a blue hat, and start your original thread over without any misleading abbreviations. :)

Ah, that one. It's needed for the right hand drive market only. In later models, they build separate parts for both markets, but you still have the universal part. That is supposed to have a cap on it. Look at the lower right of this page, part number 90339-16007...

And the top down photo...

Here you go...

Wait... I'm confused. Perhaps you could explain the system you have put together a little more? 7M-GTE longblock, right? 2J TPS? Whyfor? And a 1J butterfly? Again, what's the reasoning here? What else is different?

Just for your information... NSW in internet language is Not Safe for Work. So, most people coming here are likely expecting nude pictures of some girl called Sydney.

Sure. Question is, which HAC version do you have? The older ECUs use an external sensor, mounted under the glove box. That one is simple to deal with. The later ECUs, on the other hand, use a sensor that's on the ECU mainboard. That one is a serious PITA. I forget what kind of output they...

Pros: - Being surrounded by one of the best accents on the planet. - Climate. - Kangaroos. - Boomerangs. Cons: - Stupid government... worse than what I have now, anyway. - Stupid road rules. - Poison. Damn continent has the largest number of poisonous critters... in the world. - Giant...

It's not worthwhile. The cost on that is comparable to a full aftermarket standalone ECU. And the full stand alone has infinitely more flexibility.

Agreed. I've seen it, however, I've seen lots more good blocks than cracked ones. If I had to guess, I'd say you've have poor luck so far, but finding a clean block shouldn't be difficult.

Add in some hookers and blow, and I'm there.