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The posts by Zumtizzle and Jetjock are the best solution.

The AEM wideband still has issues sometimes... I've recently switched to the new NGK unit, it's been fantastic so far. I've had the Innovate as well - that's still in my other car. Had no luck with the Zeitronix units, though, went through 2 of those.

What kind of flywheel? Was it new, or machined? Do you know if the backstep is correct? Too much backstep would make it never let go. PS: There's some high quality advice in this thread.

A few things to add. Wideband can't hurt. Trying to gauge what your air fuel ratio is by smell, taste, or feel is pointless. Once you get that, let us know what your AFR really is. How rich is too rich? My car idles at mid 9 AFR when it's cold. Haven't had any problems with it yet. And...

I'd buy that.

While this is true, it's also rather easy to see that the camera has been messed with from the outside... meaning it gets fixed pretty quick. Vaseline is effectively invisible, so until they pull the photos and start actually looking at them, they'll be clueless.

You might not know this, but a little vaseline on the camera lens makes the pictures a little less identifiable.

Here I thought you meant to put Matt's 2J in the Mk2! That would be a shitload faster than where it is right now... :)

Fixed that for you.

Really? I know Canada is considered BizzaroLand, but that seems kind of silly.

It's not a terribly difficult job. It's very well documented in the TSRM here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CL&P=6 There are only a couple things I'd add to that. 1. To get at the clutch master nuts, I pull off the switch panel to the left of the steering...

Think of it like this. Anyone who speaks to you solely in terms of PSI or pressure is likely clueless. What really matters is how much air is being pushed and to some degree at what temperature. How are these different? Pressure is affected by quite a few things outside of the turbo itself -...

Check the clutch fluid level in the engine compartment to see if it is low. If it is, you need to find out whether it's low due to clutch wear, or low because there is a leak. From your description, I'd say a leak sounds probable. Check for wetness on the clutch master in the engine...

Now I'm really going to have to take care of it... lack of Daylight Savings Time means I'm driving home in the dark after work. :(

True enough, there's a few folks have built a setup like that. Works for caged cars, too, where you literally cannot have anyone in the rear seat anyway. Although designing something that is easily removable through the cage for track use is a challenge.

Common problem, unfortunately. In some cases, there is a procedure for programming the brain to accept additional remotes that will fix it... however, there are as many folks on the internet who cannot fix it as can. Many have made claims under the warranty for faulty remotes, and the best...

Well, considering that eBay owns PP, I'm not terribly surprised. However, there is a large difference between requiring sellers to accept PP, and requiring sellers to accept PP exclusively. If I buy something, I'm not required to pay using PP in most cases. Not that I really mind terribly...

At the risk of appearing obvious here... if they were really that bad, I'd think that Google Wallet or some other competing service would have put them in a grave by now. Considering this hasn't happened, they must not be annoying the vast majority of their customers.

Inside the rear seats would be tough again... unless you're planning on losing the use of the seats, of course. If you plan on going that route, though, might as well build something that uses the U shape between the rear suspension towers as well.

Other than The Mistress? No... I name my computers, but not my cars.