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Are you absolutely positive its bent? I know it can be a bear to get out sometimes. I'd say just cut it off and replace it.

pfffffffffffff!!:p

All I have to say is be careful, make small adjustments and pay attention to the wideband and listen.

No but that shouldn't make a difference.

I hate to be a typical SM jerk but there is a user manual online, just search google. There are only a few menus to pick from so even without a manual you really should be able to find it quite easy. If you don't know what you are doing to it adjustment wise I would go to a shop and have them...

Although I agree with the first part, we're talking about midBASS. I don't think good midbass I'd possible in our cars without a lot of forethought and fabrication. This is coming from a guy with 6.5 components in glass pods with 200 rms going to each set tuned with an oscilloscope. I hope you...

Seems high to me, plus its been repainted poorly.

you don't. I know i don't and i'm in the middle of a pull the trans because the flywheel bolts came loose job and god how i hate pulling a trans on a cold floor with jackstands. If only i would have torqued them correctly:/ Live and learn i suppose.

That flywheel looks pretty bad too. You can try to re-surface it but I think you might just need to replace it. Too many heat spotsm Does it have cracks? As for the increased clamp force, I don't really think we have problems with that at all with these cars.

Nice dodge.

Either that or the cable just happened to break. Take your cluster out and take it for a spin. Did the cable rotate behind the cluster?

There's a cold start injector but that shouldn't affect it like that. If it was leaking it would be a continuous problem.. at least IMO but i'm not a master tech or anything.

You say it won't rev past 1k and then your next sentence says you have to accelerate past 1k to get it to run so its a bit confusing. Are you able to take a video? Filter is in a real pita spot behind the rear of the subframe but I don't really think that would be it.

thanks man.

Mine seems to be doing the same thing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynM83ADq_z8&list=UUf1XjT2qxx8hMZIgHgSI8Pg&index=47 New plugs, wires, re-grounded the igniter, new coil harness. Just acquired an old scope though, thanks for the advice mecevans.

I really doubt it, it look well overheated. When it gets hot like that it actually changes the properties of the metal and that disc is just terrible.

In all seriousness, my 89 does this too. Kind of sputters on a cold start and it takes a few gentle blips to clear it out. I blame my leaky valve seals. Does it smoke upon startup?

What a surprise, another sarcastic unhelpful comment. Oh wait..

I actually don't have any of the under dams but those do make a difference for sure.

You really should just fix what is causing it to overheat before pouring magical liquid to help it cool. Something has to be wrong for it to overheat, unless you're talking about running it on a race track? Otherwise you shouldn't be having problems.