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need to pull motor, take the block to a machine shop and have the crank machined and new bearings put on. then put the motor back together and put back in the car.

My car has rod knock and I have no where to take my car to pull the motor and do the work on it. so i was curious if there is anyone in Illinois or Indiana or surrounding areas that has a garage and would be willing to help me do this task of getting my car back on the road. If anyone has a...

ok thats pretty much what I had decided on doing. thanks for the input! hope to get it running agian soon.

So my supra got rod knock about a month or so ago.. the car has just been sitting because i havent had time to do anything with it yet. But pretty soon i should be able to get around to fixing it. So what would be the recommended way of fixing rod knock? its not a real bad knock at this point...

they are either 11 or 11.5s in the rear. They are Chevlon racing wheels. pretty old school wheels

lol thanks brandon :P ... Ya the saw blades aren't exactly on there by choice. I have the front rims that match the back rims, but i found out they were cracked and so the tires wont hold air. So the saw blades are on untill i figure out what to do... possibly fix the rims, or get all new rims...

Boostlee (jeff) and myself went to an old abandon ware house yesterday to take some pictures of my supra. Jeff took all the picutres.

I was always told 550cc injectors were only good for around 550hp, is this true? Im going to be needing larger injectors anway for higher power goals, and to be safe.

So would this be a false lean reading due to the leak? or is the car actually running as lean as its reading?

I honestly dont know, thats a good question

Ya, the exhaust leak between my turbo and manifold was defenitly hurting the power, i prolly would have made right around 500hp without the leak. And yes my injectors were being maxed out, no matter how much fuel we added it was very lean from 5000rpms and up. it got very rich right around...

built motor bored .20 over Oversized Ross pistons 550's, walbro lex afm Hard pipes large front mount ssqv bov safc II AEM wideband profec B electronic boost controller Full 3in exhaust Tubular manifold HKS 50mm wastegate 67mm Billet Turbo from precision

the exhaust housing is a .81 A/R. right now with the exhaust leak it doesnt really hit full boost till around 5500rpms, alot slower spool compared to the lipp boss, at least with the leak. when its not leaking its just alittle slower to spool than the boss turbo, but deff. hits alot harder up top

haha, hows the car doing? anything new?

So yesterday i randomly decided to go dyno tune my supra. I went and got some 110 race gas and drove over to Performance Drivin's shop in Indy. I got the car on the dyno for a full hour to do some tuning with it. This is the first time i'v dyno'd my car since I put the 67mm billet turbo on, so...

im confused now.. lol

That will allow me to run more boost?? i think my base fuel pressure right now is at like 35-40psi, and under boost the safc is like -10% through alot of the rpm range

not in a hurry to do anything really, just starting to think about what i should do as far as upgrading Fuel/tuning capabilities. The afm is limiting to me, i have a decent tune with the safc right now, but the afm is holding me back. I'd like to get bigger injectors, meth, and somthing like...

understood. thanks for that info.

If i buy all the parts seperaltly i would save close to $200 because i dont need to buy the wideband.. i would love to go standalone, but i cant afford to dump that large sum of money into my car, $1500 or so for the kit, pay to have it properly installed & tuned. Looking at over $2000 easily...