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When I first ran my 60-1 I had to port the wastegate in order to stop slamming fuel cut... You might want to double check your wastegate too to make sure its working properly. As far as tuning goes I have ran mine on MAFT basic with all the mods listed in my sig and have my A/F reading around...

Come on chris you couldn't have asked one of us locally?? lol Try this.... That bypasses the VSV so it should stay open, If you get heat after you change those lines your VSV is dead. Theres one on Ebay for $89 right now too.

Just further away from the heat source, excessive heat takes away from the sensor's life, the WB sensors are a little more sensitive than the NB. I just personally mounted mine a couple inches right after the last bend.

Putting the WB bung that close to the turbo is going to decrease the life in your sensor, AEM states for turbo'd cars the sensor should be mounted at least 18" downstream from the turbo. I have mine 2 inches after the last bend in the DP.

Yes... by having the walbro in the tank and using the stock FPR it tends to bump your fuel pressure out of spec, using a SAFC to try to correct that jump is a little much. Your suppose to use a SAFC or similar to "fine tune" your system, not compensate for big jumps. Your best bet would be to...

heres the difference between the two TPS's: Note the orientation of the actuator.

Thats a steal for a 92, are you doing the labor yourself? I did my manual swap for a lot less

Are you still located in Lima ohio? Im closer to the dayton area, Ive got 4 or 5 heads in the garage and I know for a fact 3 are good. Then I have a buddy whos got at least 10. Send me a PM if your interested, I don't know about you but stuff like heads and more serious used parts I hate...

problem fixed. turns out one of the reverse wires got pinched and was grounding out against the body. thanks for the responses guys.:icon_bigg -Jesse

yea, thats the one thing I haven't looked at yet so I'm going to check that here shortly.

yea, I just read through your thread jdub, When i went thought my harness by hand last winter tracing every wire and continuity checked every single one. I also heat shrinked it and wrapped it heavily in scotch 33 and rerouted it away from all hot spots, nor do I have a EGR either so I doubt it...

I was hoping someone could give me a few pointers to help figure this out. This problem just started happening last night. I have no power to the temp, oil pressure, volt meter or my windows. I do not have a short in either of my doors or my gauge cluster, I disconnected both door wiring...

you can order them from summit, theyre around 20-25$

same here, I bought the China copy changed out the diaphragm with a aeromotive and bought real Earl's lines for it and havent had a problem. There are a few locals here doing the same.

I've been running a 60-1 for awhile now with no problems..... How long a upgraded turbo last has a big factor of who rebuilt it. It is possible to hit over 400hp with the 60-1. Where in ohio are you located?

Check the weep hole on your water pump.

Just thought I would share. :icon_bigg

Thats what I've always heard from any kit, is 6 to 8 inches from the TB... I mounted mine around 7 inches away.

for the bends in the pipe if you can find foam piping in the right angles you need sleeve the CF over it, apply the resin, once its cured pour acetone into it to disolve the foam.

I've been running 350-400HP on my w-58 for awhile, It was a fresh tranny and I put in a custom stage 3 6-puck dual spring feramic with a stock pressure plate, I out powered the pressure plate and then went up to a 2800lb cluchmasters and haven't had a problem. As for how long it will last...