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Well said. On a related note... I found out that the oil fitting banjo bolt from the 7MGTE oil cooler return pipe is the same thread as the fuel hose banjo bolts, but has a larger passageway inside. It should flow quite a bit more than the stock fuel bolts. The 7MGTE oil cooler return pipe...

Ah, I see. I know what the damper does... it smooths out the pulses from the fuel pump rotor so that you have smooth fuel pressure. I was just going to say that it must be something specific to toyota, but I remember seeing a damper in the tank on my mitsubishi and on several other kinds of cars...

Stock fuel hose from damper to rail is busted (on my 1JZ), I'm thinking of just replacing it with a DM hose. I'm still running a stock pump and relay/resistor for now, stock boost, will eliminating the fuel damper cause any problems?

You said 2JZ coolant hoses, do you mean from a JZA80 TT? The 2JZ SC300 has different hoses listed.

I just fixed this on mine, it was crushed when the previous owner removed it. I used a large taper punch and stuck it in there. It fit in pretty deep without bottoming out. Worked fine.

Look over the motor really well before you put it in. I found on mine that the guy who did the last timing belt didn't put the rubber boot on the timing belt tensioner and a few other small bonehead things. Also found 3 cracked ignition coils. Better to deal with stuff like that now than when...

Good luck with them, but like others have said, racing equipment isn't the safest thing to use on the street. Better off with reclining seats that you can use the OEM seat belts with. Racing harnesses are designed for cars with cages that prevent the roof from collapsing during a rollover. Stock...

Sweet. So a maxima PS line fits? I keep learning stuff for this swap everytime I come on here. Just saved $60 with that tip. I can get a used maxima PS hose for like five bucks at the u-pull-it. Thanks.

Not a fan of seat covers (the looks or function). They just collect dirt under them and make the seats wear out faster. Cleaning the seats regularly works better to preserve them.

I'd go the insulation route. Using up power to cool the inside with A/C will just make the engine produce more heat, and you'll have to keep turning up the A/C.... it's a vicious cycle, lol. Seems like a waste of power to me. Using A/C to cool the car would work, but the floor would still be hot...

Ah, yes, seafoam. The only thing in this world that's got a more powerful reputation than chuck norris. I hear he started drinking it now instead of beer. You can buy stuff that's made for cleaning the insides of metal fuel tanks. It's a 2 step cleaner made by Kreem called tank prep. It's...

Not to mention the fact that lexan scratches and looks like crap after a year or two, even the scratch resistant stuff. I think weight reduction is one of those things that really depends on your preferences. Some people prefer having everything that toyota graced them with from the factory...

Cool project. I'm liking the idea of a 4 cylinder supra more and more every time I see one. Some guy on SF is building an A70 chassis powered by a 3S/5S with a beams 6-speed. Looking forward to seeing both of these cars run.

I'd find the relay for that fan, hook a switch up to activate the relay manually, and keep the fan there just in case you ever get stuck in traffic and need the extra cooling. Then again, if you've been stuck in heavy traffic in really hot weather before and the car didn't overheat I'd just...

To be honest, I didn't read all 25 pages of this thread. I just read the good parts. lol. I'm not sure if I'm the first one to point this out or not... but... I could pretty much tell that XTD (or XTR or whoever this guy is calling himself these days) clutches are not what they claim to be...

I'm trying to repin the smashed ecu plug on my early style soarer 1JZGTE harness, some of the wires are pulled out of the plugs and I can't figure out which spots they go into. I have that ECU pinout that's posted elsewhere on here, but it has no wire colors for the pins and I already tried...

I use the Ecsta XS for mountain road driving... lots of sharp turns and heavy braking and acceleration zones. I never had them overheat and lose grip or chunk, same with the (now being phased out) Ecsta MX. I have overheated the less hardcore Kumho's though. Even pushed an Escta AST till it...

It's not as easy as slapping parts in there to convert and open carrier to limited slip. I'd think the cost of the clutch discs, machine work, other parts.... you'd be over the cost of an aftermarket diff.

Unless you want to fill the holes and shave them (search BIC performance and check out their silver car, it has this done), you'll have to buy a used set from the for sale section or ebay. A used set usually goes for about $100-200 on ebay for the whole set.

It's not on your list, but it's similar..... I've used the Kumho Ecsta XS max performance summer tire and it works great, except for heavy rain.