Pre-1JZ drop in checklist

[nctexan]

Can anyone suggest any deletions/ modifications to any 7MGTE engine bay components that are best completed before putting in the 1JZGTE? What about on the 1J itself? Hosing/wiring (I'm waiting on Driftmotion to complete my harness)/ any basic prep to the 1J before the drop in (im changing sparkplugs/ its a 30k mi. motor so I'm not changing water pump, alternator, timing belt was changed at 15k mi.).

EX: I believe the PS pump on the 1J is on the opposite side of the motor from the 7M. I have the stainless PS hose from Driftmotion, but is this going to get me the length that I need?

This is my first motor swap so please bear with me. Thanks for any and all insight!:boobies:

 

[OneJArpus]

Do you have a P/S cooler? If not buy an aftermarket cooler from Autozone or advance auto. Same goes for the hydro fan.


Just make sure the engine bay is clean, make sure your rack and pinion is good cause its easier to replace it now vs later. I would change the starter. I didn't change the starter on the engine i got from DM and the starter was dead when i did my swap. Wasn't hard to replace but it sucked to have to do it.

 

[nctexan]

No power steering cooler, I'll have to check that out. What do you mean same for the hydro fan? There is a cooler for that as well? I'm going to bench test the starter that came with the motor today. THanks for the tips.

 

[mkiiichip]

are you keeping the hydro fan?
did you have to switch to front sump oil pan? it seems to me that most of the motors with hydro fan, are front sump.
i didn't know driftmotion converted wiring harnesses. did you have to send them your 7m harness? how much are they charging?
what trans are you using?

 

[92TealSupra]

Supra motor are all rear sump... they all have the hydro fan. There are three different cars the 1jz-gte comes in.. Chaser, Soarer and MKIII.. The JZa70 always has the hydro pump set-up..

 

[nctexan]

Yep it's a supra motor - rear sump/hydro fan

mkiiichip, yes I sent them my harness, I don't believe they do it as an outside service, unless you are having them do a swap for you, they did it for me only because I bought a clip from them and paid for the wiring work. There's a price for everything though I'm sure...

 

[OneJArpus]

The hydro pump & p/s pump need a cooler.

I've read and heard not running a cooler will overheat the p/s pump n kill it. A simple rail cooler or small trans cooler will suffice.

Also before you start the engine up make sure you have fluid for the p/s pump & hydro fan. Put atf fluid in do not start the motor with it DRY i hear that will kill the pump as well.

 

[nctexan]

The hydro pump & p/s pump need a cooler.

I've read and heard not running a cooler will overheat the p/s pump n kill it. A simple rail cooler or small trans cooler will suffice.

Also before you start the engine up make sure you have fluid for the p/s pump & hydro fan. Put atf fluid in do not start the motor with it DRY i hear that will kill the pump as well.

So I'm guessing that the hydro pump cooler would connect to the hose that comes right off of the hydro pump (which is located on the back of the fan shroud), correct?

 

[te72]

Things I have learned that would have been MUCH easier with the engine out than with it in:

-paint
-Ypipe/downpipe (only applies if you're staying with the stock twins and care to upgrade)
-oil pressure sending unit
-oil filter relocation (gonna do that next spring, I have skinny arms, but moving it would make it easier to get to)
-ac and power steering lines

So with that aside, might I ask you what makes you think this is a 30k mile motor? How many Supras have you seen that only have 30k on them? Personally, I've only seen a very small handful of them on ebay. I would treat it as if it were a 60-90k motor, and replace anything now that you don't want to replace IN the car. Pretty much, if it's rubber, I would replace it now rather than later, unless you're a fan of figuring out fun ways of getting to really PITA parts of your engine bay.

 

[nctexan]

I agree with your outlook, there were items that I would have liked to replace for preventative reasons though it all looked really good. Unfortunately I had to get the motor in the car at that time.

With regards to your question about motor mileage, I just had a couple of pics and word of mouth assurance from DM that the odometer was right around 55,000 km before it was pulled from the clip.

 

[te72]

I still say better safe than replacing turbo coolant lines in the middle of a snowy winter. Like I said, anything that's rubber, it's likely 20 years old. Mileage is bad enough on rubber, but time is much worse...

 

[nctexan]

I hear ya, f that! I'm in Houston though

 

[mattsplat72]

I just finished my swap. I changed EVERYTHING rubber on the motor. I dropped the pan and cleaned it out and resealed it with FIPG ( form in place gasket from Toyota). I did three 7m swaps and a few SR20's. I learned from those to do everything first.

I would replace the old grounds with newer wires. Clean all the ground contact points. Clean bay and subframe. Basically do everything now that you dont want to do in the rain and dark.

 

[87M-GTE]

Good info!

What about an oil cooler?

Did 1JZ cars come with oil coolers?

As for the PS cooler, would a 7M-GT oil cooler work?

Thanks,
Sam

 

[mkiiichip]

What about an oil cooler? Did 1JZ cars come with oil coolers?

Yes, its integrated into the oil filter housing

As for the PS cooler, would a 7M-GT oil cooler work?

Yes.

 

[destrux]

Look over the motor really well before you put it in. I found on mine that the guy who did the last timing belt didn't put the rubber boot on the timing belt tensioner and a few other small bonehead things. Also found 3 cracked ignition coils. Better to deal with stuff like that now than when you're dieing to drive the thing and are held up by some small part.

 

[rakkasan]

just like it was said before, replace everything rubber. Definitely the clutch, Rear main seal, take a look at the harmonic balancer (replace the front main if removing the HB), vacuum lines, gaskets, and ensure everythingis sealed up & not leaking. It's easy to replace on an engine stand, but a true PITA in the car. Also, if you're running the twins & you want to run an aftermarket Y pipe / downpipe, swap it now. It sucks to do it on the stand, let alone IN the car.

What kind of wiring do you ask Aaron to do? Extend the harness to go thru the stock harness entrance?

 

[87M-GTE]

Yes, its integrated into the oil filter housing

As in there is no actual cooler?
Looking at mine, the water pipe runs through the oil filter housing, is that what is doing the cooling?

Thanks for the responce!

Sam

 

[mattsplat72]

^ yup, it is cooled by coolant.

 

[mkiiichip]

In stock form, toyota was just trying to keep the oil temp similar to water temp. Its better than the bypass system the 7m had, but it still leaves allot to be desired for an upgraded engine.