ok guys i did my 1jz swap like 1 year ago and its gets really hot in my cockpit ugh... so im tired of being so hot in there, my car runs smooth and perfect. Well anyways what can i do so it doesnt get hot in there no more... my feet burn up lol.
Its so hot!
- Thread starter Falken
- Start date
You could try dyno matting the floor board on the inside of the car under the carpet and on the fire wall where you can. It works pretty well for heat blocking, had to do that in my jeep cj7 to cool it off.
metaphysico;1622890 said:
What he said- but I'm guessing alot of heat comes through the tranny tunnel wall.
As air passes over the engine and gets heated, I imagine alot of it gets, well....tunneled through the tunnel.
un-deleting AC wouldn't solve his problem.
Heat wrap the exhaust? Heat sheild the trans tunnel? suck it up and be a man!
Heat wrap the exhaust? Heat sheild the trans tunnel? suck it up and be a man!
87M-GTE;1622965 said:
Yes, it would. I've never been in a car without A/C that didn't get shitload of radiant heat from the engine bay, it's normal,
I'm not clear on this- are you saying that having the AC equipment in the car somehow reduces radiant heat to the interior,
or are you saying that he should put in the AC in order to cool the interior down by using it??
or are you saying that he should put in the AC in order to cool the interior down by using it??
supraguy@aol;1623019 said:
So what is the A/C is for? I always thought it was to make the interior of a car cooler than ambient temperature.
Edit: Nvm sorry, english > me, I didn't see the word "or"
I think what he is trying to do is cooling down the engine bay thus then cooling down the cabin without using A/C at all. I think you will be ok as the winter is creeping up lol. But i'm thinking heat shield not on turbos, and you can try to wrap the downpipes.
As for me I like dynomat because it not only will help with the heat it will also quiet road and engine noise in the car. The trans tunnel would also be a good place to put dynomat but I was thinking the easy route, its not too much work to pull the carpets back to dynomat the floor and firewall but pulling everything to cover the trans tunnel is a lot of work, but it would be the right way.
what point is a supra without cool crisp AC to keep you cool 
don't be lame my supra has 600 hp and i have AC
don't be lame my supra has 600 hp and i have AC
supraguy@aol;1622892 said:
ya that what happens heat comes from the tranny... what do you mean un-delete a/c?
---------- Post added at 07:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:35 AM ----------
akito;1623098 said:
my engine is cool enough... i drove it from L.A. to Las Vegas so many times... now i live in las vegas and summer here sucks!
Another thing to consider is your heater core... Check the carpets on the inside of the firewall, near your throttle linkage and on the passenger side. If you have any pink (or whatever color your coolant is) you may need to push the hose from the engine bay further onto the heater core pipe. I had to do this on my car... Took a trip from WY to AZ and it was halfway miserable, in April, at night, the cabin temp was ~48* C. For us normal folk, that's over 85* F.
I'd go the insulation route. Using up power to cool the inside with A/C will just make the engine produce more heat, and you'll have to keep turning up the A/C.... it's a vicious cycle, lol. Seems like a waste of power to me. Using A/C to cool the car would work, but the floor would still be hot if you don't have enough heat shielding or insulation on the inside of the firewall. If you stripped out the carpet and floor insulation, you'll need to get some insulation back in there. If your exhaust or turbo heat shields fell off or you took them off... put them back. Wrap the downpipe like people have already mentioned. Check out DEI or thermo-tec's website for firewall insulation blankets and other heat wrap type stuff. Dynamat is too heavy to use for this IMHO, that stuff is designed to insulate sound, not heat. The only reason some dynamat has the silver coating is so that it will survive mild heat without melting into goop (which is messy as hell, I've seen it).
Also, if you're engine is running rich or your ignition timing is too retarded the turbo and exhaust will get hotter than normal. I had a car come in on the dyno once that was running so rich the exhaust was glowing red all the way to the muffler... on the FIRST run. Once the tune was perfect the only part glowing was the turbo manifold.
Also, if you're engine is running rich or your ignition timing is too retarded the turbo and exhaust will get hotter than normal. I had a car come in on the dyno once that was running so rich the exhaust was glowing red all the way to the muffler... on the FIRST run. Once the tune was perfect the only part glowing was the turbo manifold.
/facepalm
You have a hot ass engine in front of you and a thin steel firewall between you and the motor. It's completely NORMAL to get tons of radiant heat off of the engine. A/C is there to cool the cabin and it's more efficient than the passive radiant heat from the engine bay, that's why it's actually used (or it wouldn't make much sense adding it to a car now would it?)
You have a hot ass engine in front of you and a thin steel firewall between you and the motor. It's completely NORMAL to get tons of radiant heat off of the engine. A/C is there to cool the cabin and it's more efficient than the passive radiant heat from the engine bay, that's why it's actually used (or it wouldn't make much sense adding it to a car now would it?)