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Since this thread is not directly about Supras it's been moved into OT...

It's not that hard. The only tricky part is remembering or figuring out the spring/ball arrangement.

Shift fork. It's a weak point in the tranny. Toyota redesigned it, a new one should hold up much better.

If you want to take good shots in the dark you'll want to invest in a tripod. The tripod will prevent the motion blur as well as allow for longer exposures. Also try not to shoot a light source in the picture. Keep them behind, to the side or above your frame, otherwise they get over...

Look at it this way, it's not like changing your oil it doesn't have to be done every 3,000 miles. You can get quite a bit of mileage out of that $40 in fluids, and it's certainly a lot cheaper then having to rebuild them.

I wouldn't recommend the Toyota e-brake cover. I bought a brand new one when I bought my 92 a few years ago and it started looked like it was old within a year. It looks like it's the original one by now, pathetic. The shift boot however still looks awesome...

Could also be that PITA 90 degree coolant hose, lower radiator hose, maybe even the lower turbo coolant hose. Either way check your coolant level by taking the radiator cap off when the car has cooled down. Make sure it's filled to the very top. If the level is way down you need to fix the...

My 86.5 was pretty bad. I found shoddy wiring and ghetto rigging quite often. Plus they liked to paint the tops of things with silver paint, and a little on the sides. I never quite figured that out but I did manage to clean it all off. It could have been much worse though. I've seen some...

If the car wasn't beaten on too bad by the previous owners and you keep up with the mechanicals it's really not an expensive car to maintain. I spent a few hundred dollars when I first got my 92 Supra on a full tune-up, replacing all the rubber coolants hoses, all the belts, etc and it's...

It could be a small leak from the front main. The oil loss could be a combination of small leaks or possibly you're burning a tiny amount.

Yes. Personally I'd install it on the intake manifold side as close to the manifold as possible. It's cooler on that side and there's less chance of a vacuum line mishap. If you accidently attach the BOV line to the incorrect spot in the future it could cause your car to not run or not run...

5. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_071.html You'll either hear or not hear fuel running through the rail and FPR.

I've found that even after the car is warmed up it never quite idles right without the idle control valve. You could probably play with the throttle play adjustment but that would be a big hassle for minimal gains.

You can T off the BOV line. It just needs to be post throttle plate and not regulated by any VSV's.

Perhaps if you give us some more clues we can be 100% positive.

W/ is without W is with

The HKS SSQV attaches onto it's pipe via C-clip. You need a c-clip tool or some patience/extra set of hands with some small screwdrivers. Take the cover off the SSQV with an allen wrench so you don't accidently scratch it. Take the rubber o-ring and put a thin coat of oil on it, then place it...

90ish to 92 got a different key then 86.5-90ish. It's very likely that 90ish to 98 all used the same key blank. Those keys look very similar to my 92 key...

It is possible that the clutch system is low on hydraulic fluid or perhaps just has air in the lines. Could also be master or slave cylinder.

There are a lot of factors in BOV noise. BOV design, location, venting to atm or recirc, air filter, amount of boost, etc. If your BOV was malfunctioning or set too firm it would probably be very noticeable as chatter. Set too soft it could be a boost leak. I don't have very much experience...