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plugs are new and properly gapped. I'm waiting on an Expresscard to Serial adapter for my laptop, then I'll pull the map off and check it out

I'm having a bit of an issue with this on my car. I have a DH62 igniter, which from what we learned is the same as the DH61 (if I'm wrong, please correct me). So the base timing got set, the car started up and ran fine under vacuum, but as soon as we hit boost it starting crapping out. Can...

anyone know if the HPF bronze has issues with welding on a lightened flywheel? i have a fidanza.

1) MHG w/ ARPs 2) 3" turbo back exhaust 3) new intake manifold 4) new IC and piping 5) standalone.

very nice.

it would be a tire roaster if not for the clutch... but im thinking that it might have been slipping on the dyno too, hence the boost tapering off to 9 psi at redline. and i can't really give you shit for taking so long fixing your steering after how long i took fixing my headgasket haha

i ordered an ExpressCard serial adapter, apparantly they fix all the issues that AEM has with USB serial converters. how did you get your car to idle at 14:1? mine idles ~11:1 hot.

weight, heat loss/retention, and corrosion on the inside of the tubing. steel is heavier, but cheaper and easier to weld, it holds in more heat, and won't cool off as quickly. once your IC pipes get a nice coating of oil on the inside thanks to the PCV system, you probably won't have to worry...

do a braided clutch line while you have it all apart, and make sure to put some good quality fluid in.

free beer? ill be right there.

paint looks good. which turbo are you going with?

dyno tuning on saturday, woot

I'd say get them shipped to me and I'll send them to you, but the seller charges $35 to ship to Canada (plus UPS brokerage costs) vs $11 to ship to the US. all we need is a member to volunteer....

ah ok, thanks. i run a 3 bar with my AEM

from what i understand, it's basically how much boost you want to run. 1 bar = 14.5psi, and the sensors come in 2, 3, 4, etc bar ranges, so your sensor has to be able to mesaure the boost properly. cant run 20 psi on a 1 bar sensor for example. you can get a GM 3 bar for pretty cheap, I got mine...

Can't you use the CPS, or do you want to get rid of it? Pardon my ignorance, I'd like to know what the benefits would be? More accurate timing?

I've got on for sale if you want it, cheaper than buying new. too bad you have an 89 though, i made a PnP harness for a pre89.

Thanks for the tire sizes. How close is the wheel to the suspension parts? Not just the spring, but the trailing arms, etc?

tire sizes?

you could have had the tank media blasted (walnut shell or soda blasted, not sand) to remove the old coating, that would save you a lot of time, but it's not free. nice writeup, thanks