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Sorry rob, I should have specified, I was asking dan. I was just wondering since he said his oxidized. Mine were fine all summer. Saw he was from alberta and thought maybe it was from road salt. That shit corrodes everything. If I ever move south that will be the main reason.

The a/f will be off at cruise and idle running with alot of mods on a stock ECU. The fuel maps in the ECU are set for a completely stock car. They might work OK for a car that's got basic mods, but once you start making serious mods (cams, porting, manifolds, compression ratios, displacement...

Holy crap. Well, I can't turn it on long enough for it to even get hot. I just unplugged the wires from the grid and it still does it, so that leaves the heated mirrors (which I had no idea my car even had, but there's a fuse in the box for it, so it must), or a shorted wire. I also checked the...

Thanks I'll check that. I found another weird thing, I was testing the amperage output of the alternator and when I turn the defroster on the alternator stops charging completely, then resumes normal charging when the switch is turned off. The alternator is putting out 14.59V and charging amps...

Like the title says, are there any known problems with the rear defroster/defogger? Mine works, but when I turn it on it drains so much power that the car will shut off after a few seconds. The second I turn it on the voltage gauge goes from 14 to 11 and keeps going down till 9V and then the car...

The stock cooler depends alot on how well your cooling system works. If you have a massive radiator that's keeping your coolant temp in check then the stock oil cooler will work better than if you have a stock radiator and your coolant is borderline overheating. The nice thing about the stock...

A big thing on JZ engines is the valve stem seals hardening up and leaking or falling off the guide after 100,000 miles or so. My "45,000 mile" motor had really bad ones. I've been told to skip the OEM ones, as the aftermarket are better in this case. You want ones made of Viton. I used Felpro...

Do you drive your car in the salt?

I agree, 5th would be the best gear numerically, but I prefer 4th. There's less "squish" before you reach the torque value. My theory is that you're not flexing the transmission parts as much because you're not really using a "gear" in 4th.

Install an oil temp gauge, then at least you know your temp and can back off if you're close to cooking it. You're probably already running good synthetic oil, which handles heat better than conventional oil. Still don't want to take it over 260F for any amount of time, so till you get a cooler...

Yeah, but our motivation was just not being bored.