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I would have loved to show up with a few grand after they got done and offered to buy it unsmashed. Idiots.

Make sure you check out your suspension really well for cracks and damaged joints and bearings. Sounds like you at least bent a tie rod. Get a good alignment then too, with a caster and steering angle inclination check to be sure it's all straight. Good call though, I would have swerved too. I...

Yes, you need those springs, or the pads will vibrate around terribly. You should also have two wire springs that hook into the edges of the pads to spread them apart. There are little holes in the pad edges for this. If they're missing it will also contribute to a squeal. If the rotors were...

oooh... don't forget the left hand drill bits! Those work great on sheared exhaust studs, or bolts that some dolt broke from over-tightening. Half the time the drill bit grabs it and spins it right out without even needing to get the extractors.

75% of the time motors are more reliable if they're not rebuilt (unless they're done by a shop that specializes in that motor). I hope you don't take offense to this, I'm not saying you're no good at rebuilding engines, this is just a generalized view of everyone in this hobby.

haha.... it also had nitrous. This was before I had a drivers license.

I usually have better luck with steel bolts seized in aluminum if I use a big round punch and hit the top of it a few times, give them a good shock. You have to do it right when you realize it's going to take more than normal force to take it out. It doesn't always work, it largely depends on...

I see that apexi lists the recommended sensor number in the wiring diagram, and it is "1". The gauge is off by a little, but only about 1 psi, maybe sensor number "1" isn't perfect but is just the closest sensor number in the AFC to being perfect. Whatever, hopefully I only have to deal with...

So it's late, I'm tired, but a small problem on the car is bugging me. Looking for some advice. I was told to leave the "sensor IN OUT" numbers alone, default is "1:1". I'm not sure if this is right. I know the two number are supposed to be the same, but should they both be set to number 1...

Garrett doesn't make the TD06... Mitsubishi makes them. Any turbo that is a "TD0*" is a mitsubishi design. I see why they're so expensive though, this manifold uses the 3 bolt turbine flanges like the 3000GT's use. The only cheap option for those turbos is used stock ones from a 3000GT VR4. A...

Get a multimeter and test the voltage at the alternator, right on the main +B stud (with the car running). If there's voltage there check the alternator main wire leading to the battery and the fuse and fusible link. There may be more than one fuse on that wire, my car has one in the fuse box (a...

It starts to spool hard on mine (HX35W 8 blade on 1JZ) at ~3500rpm. My tach is off by a little though. I hit the rev limiter when the tach says 7K, and my digital tach says 7050... but rev limiter should be at 7250 IIRC... so... I have to look into that. I'm going to keep an eye out for...

You can't just pull and injector and coil wire and drive on 5 cylinders. Sure, you eliminated the raw fuel that was coming from cylinder 3- but you just created another problem. The oxygen sensor is seeing all the unconsumed oxygen coming through that dead cylinder and thinks the car is...

The guy who posted it on facebook was from the middle east. It was on the 1JZ-GTE fan page.

I lied. You wouldn't have looked if I told you it was 130whp and cost $15 though. I lied again, I found it on facebook and know nothing about it or what it's mounted in. I wonder if the intercooler is paper mache.

Better off having a friend hold down the brake pedal to apply the disc brakes. The e-brake shoes have about 1/8" of rotational slop when they're applied. This will show up at the driveshaft as alot more slop. I figured this out when I checked my car on the 2 post lift one day, with the e-brake...

Clean it off and put tracer dye in it, then see where the dye trail leads. You can get UV dye that glows under a blacklight, or red dye that just dyes the oil bright red. Just drain it out and put fresh oil in before you drive hard, I don't know what that stuff would do under stress.

Scuffing in the cylinders only happens for one of 4 reasons (barring assembly errors or oil contamination)... 1. Pistons over-expand from too much heat and "run out of clearance". 2. Lack of oil (should have damaged other things) 3. Damage to the piston from detonation 4. Coolant in the...

A bad turbo will smoke whenever it feels like it, or not. Mine was acting all sorts of crazy, smoking sometimes, not smoking sometimes. It's very hard to say "a smoking turbo will do this" with 100% accuracy. It all depends why it's smoking. Broken seal? Excessive play? Excessive coking...

No, the white ones are literally painted white. They were on the white package cars that had white door trim and white wheels. From your pic, your wheels look silver. Worst case, if you strip them and hate it you can paint them whatever color you want, cause they're ready to paint. Mine have...