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The OEM gauge is highly inaccurate but NOT that inaccurate. Sounds like exhaust gases are seeping into the cooling system. I think NAPA sells a test kit that will test for CO in the coolant.

how is that subframe looking though? Might want to reinforce any part of the subframe that is looking weak. With the age it will be too! As for the MKIII diff. As IJ. stated. I have not heard of anyone grenading the rear end of this car. The torsen based diff yes but the clutch pack one. Nope.

umm. seriously? well here you go. https://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2281&select=&page=3 from matco tools, Part#: PTK70888 Snap-on and MAC has them too. I think NAPA, autozone should carry some version of it.

120hz? yikes! not the frequency. That is fine. Just when people turn on the cinemotion or whatever trademark it is for Samsung, YUCK! Not only that but the tearing on fast motion scenes. Makes it horrendous! anyway. Blu-ray player. For that receiver. Your best bet is 5 analog out...

No clue. Older T series based turbo.

Could mean anything really. My first thought, even before you mentioned MAACO is still pointing to the paint and how it was mixed, reduced, catalyzed and hardened. After you mentioned MAACO, I would DEFINETLY be suspect of the paint and how it was processed before being sprayed.

I would still pressure test the entire cooling system. If the head was not machined to MHG requirements. You will have issues (with leaks)!

lol lol lol

pressure leak SOME where in the cooling system. On that note too. You need to have coolant in the overflow bottle as when the system cools it pulls the coolant from the overflow. No coolant means air gets "ingested" by the cooling system. Did you check the radiator cap?

Ok a couple of questions. The Bee-R power builder. Using Anti-lag strategy correct? If so, monitoring EGTs? If not. You better as you will be looking at 1100+c tempratures. Any ALS makes the turbo a throw away item. Are you rallying or have restrictor racing that requires ALS? so...

dirty? Stuck open? Not working? The two nuts that are on the intake manifold require either a short extension or a flex-elbox. I usually like the flex elbow apparoach, makes for an easier removal.

I don't see an S-AFC or any other piggy back. Stock the car always runs very rich under boost. AFR's numbers lower than 10. 9.1? I doubt you are reading that as most Widebands do not go that low accurately.

say what???? cost me $45 usd for a bottoming out tap from fastenal.

mst new vehicles use CANBus as the network protocol. just need to know hex addresses and the originating hex adrress along with speed and you are set. CAN sniffers work real well at deciphiring that.

because the fcd was introduced as part of the HKS VPC package for the mkiii supra.

side pipe with no muffler? Drone much? **sidenote: sometime the quest for HP is on the whimsical side (for lack of using the choice words I want to use).**

nah it is not insane. let see 18 feet of supra vs 140+ feet or B-1b bomber....... 18ft v 140ft. Yeah the supra is leaps and bounds easier in wiring ;) btw which crimper are you refering to? The DMC M860 for mil-spec or the Tyco Pro-Crimper II? :)

no if the turbos are ball bearings, they require oil restriction on the inlets. A simple y split to the turbos should work fine.

Looks like the water is reacting with the clear coat. you sure that the clear was hardened and reduced correctly when it was applied? I have seen that issue before but usually happens with what I mentioned above.

sounds about right! but I haven't not weighed a dry motor.