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Right - gotcha - just had a look at the assembly of it all in a diagram someone picked out for me in FC...can the adjuster be REMOVED without removing the shoes, if it's seized, or do i have to strip the whole assembly?

This is going to sound horribly stupid but...how, and with what tools, are you supposed to adjust these? BR-45, Step 9, in the TSRM, is incredibly vague and gives very little details on how to accomplish this. The shoes have 1.5mm of material left on them, and look reasonably new. I just...

Three words: OM NOM NOM! :D Seriously though, you might want to read this: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-563099/The-amazing-pixie-dust-pigs-bladder-regrew-severed-finger-FOUR-weeks.html

Toyota aren't making CT26's anymore...the supply will run out someday...

Well - now you know, take the lexus afm off, return to the stock setup until you get injectors.

I wouldn't take a stock CT26 beyond 7-8psi for longevity and reliability - these turbo's are 20 years old, it's probably best not to push them.

...anyone? 3p14159265? jetjock? *echo*

Has anyone got a schematic of the internals of the igniter, at all? I have yet another project in mind...

Poodles - are you just not comprehending? IT WORKED. Sure, there were no cheap things like SAFC's etc to assist the fuelling more, but the point is, it worked, and worked fine. Am i running a SAFC? Nope. But i'm running a 255 pump and the lex with a screw without problems.

Actually Poodles, Yes. http://suprasonic.org/lexusriemer/lexusnotes.html It's the same method Reg himself used when developing the mod in the first place.

Go back to the stock AFM. The Lexus AFM housing *HAS* to go with the 550cc injectors, else it just won't work.

You Toasted it. Time for a replacement.

Have a look at FI-73 in the TSRM - fuel pressure with vacuum connected is 23-30 psi, without it, it's 33-40 psi. The VSV switches the vacuum on and off to the regulator. If the fuel pressure isn't switching as it should, you're surely going to end up with poor spray from the injectors, causing...

Actually, as fuel approaches ridiculous prices here, old, retro cars, which don't have large engines, are being priced ridiculously. It's a case of most of them were either run into the ground, taken to a destruction derby, rusted away, crushed, broken down etc, so all the ones that are left...

Jetjock - surely if the VSV for Fuel Pressure isn't working at all, or correctly, this is going to cause problems, no?

To be honest, i been thinking about getting a new daily for my job in January/February, something economical and cheap to run, but also with a little bit of retro funness in there. My choice? Mk1 Ford Fiesta (1976-1982) Supersport 1300cc Kent X-Flow Engine (OHV), Weber 34DMTL Carb...

Taking a car which was designed for use with a power steering system and cletus bodging it into a manual setup, is idiotic. Just strip and rebuild the rack, get new seals on the pump and fresh fluid, and you'll be surprised what it can do.

The only problem with polishing these wheels is...well...they have plastic centrecaps. If someone made metal ones, it'd be ideal. I think the early, early sawblades came with metal hubcaps but don't quote me on that. The later 5-spokes? As far as i can tell the only trims are plastic, and Mk4...

Grey inners with black outers would look fine on a darker car...i'd go for red + stock grey, with red stitching...or black/red - if you use black, that's throwing a third colour into the mix :/

If i were you, i'd just go with a set of stock grey, or two-tone's, from these people: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300580532915?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Full set, front and rear, embroidery optional.