ROBAPHENT;1917472 said:
It's pretty much as good...the 1jz head doesn't flow SIGNIFICANTALLY less stock vs stock. At the 'build' level we are talking about I'd guess headwork would be done anyway.
Thinking of Stroking the 1j
- Thread starter colpire
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It's pretty much as good...the 1jz head doesn't flow SIGNIFICANTALLY less stock vs stock. At the 'build' level we are talking about I'd guess headwork would be done anyway.
Only reason to "do" a 1.5jz is if you have a lot of $$$ in the 1J head/intake and the bottom end takes a dump...
From reading the port velocity is higher so it might perform better at low boost pound for pound.. maybe
From reading the port velocity is higher so it might perform better at low boost pound for pound.. maybe
^ That is correct, Just seems a lot of people build 1.5JZ from the start thinking they are some JDM All star.
Main reason 1.5JZ was used was to cheat the system in JDM land. Bigger engine without looking like a bigger engine.
Up until a few years ago, it was pretty difficult to wire in a 2JZ as well.
Regardless, with the dwindling supply of JDM front clips to do easy 1JZ installs for relatively cheap, it's usaully more cost effective to go 2JZGE-T on 7M-GTE electronics. Though I'm sure the 2JZ electronics are far better.
Regardless, with the dwindling supply of JDM front clips to do easy 1JZ installs for relatively cheap, it's usaully more cost effective to go 2JZGE-T on 7M-GTE electronics. Though I'm sure the 2JZ electronics are far better.
Dylan JZ;1917844 said:I tell ya what though, that port velocity issue is a benefit depending on what you're doing
Yeah, that's a thing called torque. Case in point: Ford made the 351 Cleveland and the 351 Winsor. The Cleveland could make tons of HP due to their absolutely huge exhaust ports. For years, NASCAR used Cleveland style heads (they might still, not sure). However, the torque numbers were pretty bad. I had a '70 Mach 1 with a built 351C. It would move like a raped ape once it was above 3500 rpm. It was fun for a while, but it wasn't practical for a street motor. I bought a pair of '2 barrel' Australian Cleveland heads. Made a HUGE difference, lots more torque in the lower rpms.
the 351W is a great street motor, it doesnt suffer from the a lack of torque in the lower rpms. Why? Smaller exhaust ports / higher velocity.
the 2JZ is a great motor that can make tons of HP, however, I love my 1.5JZ because it does what I want it to do. It makes great power in off boost driving and it spools my turbo extremely fast. SupraHero can attest to this. If I had it to d over again, I dont think I would change much. I would stay with a 1.5JZ.
There has been talk that if my bottom end takes a crap, we might be porting the head even more, getting even more aggressive cams (and related valve springs/retainers/custom valves/etc), rods, pistons, the whole lot. Then we're going to say goodbye to any power below 3k, BUT... make up for it on the other side of 10-12k. :evil2:
Granted, this is just talk at this point, and I sincerely hope that I never have to open my engine again, but we all know how that goes in the world of modified sports cars...
Granted, this is just talk at this point, and I sincerely hope that I never have to open my engine again, but we all know how that goes in the world of modified sports cars...
Just stick with the 1jz. leave it stock. then go 1.5 later. its really not hard to do the math on this.
I made 720rwhp on my completly stock block 1jz. Head has no port work done, just cams, springs, shimless buckets. I rev to 9k. Hasnt broken yet. when she finally goes....IF she goes, My plan is to pick up a 2jz block and build it with forged internalls. Only because my Exhaust seup, Fuel seup, etc etc I wouldnt want to change up.
its not that much to build a 2jz bloack that can handle 1200rwho. $2k for internals with ARP shit. I would port the 1jz head if I ever did this route, So I could flow close to what a 2jzgte head would flow, again the only reason why I would go 1.5 is all the money that is already invested into the 1jz.
I made 720rwhp on my completly stock block 1jz. Head has no port work done, just cams, springs, shimless buckets. I rev to 9k. Hasnt broken yet. when she finally goes....IF she goes, My plan is to pick up a 2jz block and build it with forged internalls. Only because my Exhaust seup, Fuel seup, etc etc I wouldnt want to change up.
its not that much to build a 2jz bloack that can handle 1200rwho. $2k for internals with ARP shit. I would port the 1jz head if I ever did this route, So I could flow close to what a 2jzgte head would flow, again the only reason why I would go 1.5 is all the money that is already invested into the 1jz.
Isn't the other reason people go 1.5 is cuz it's easier to wire in? not having to fuss with a 2j harness?
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Not sure really, both are easy IMO.
Main reason people who go 1.5 are the people who have a 1jz, and want more power/better torque/etc etc without having to change anything but the block.
People who go 1.5 right off the bat, and build a 1.5, is better off just building a full 2jz or full 1jz, whichever they prefer
Main reason people who go 1.5 are the people who have a 1jz, and want more power/better torque/etc etc without having to change anything but the block.
People who go 1.5 right off the bat, and build a 1.5, is better off just building a full 2jz or full 1jz, whichever they prefer
Ya the ones that go straight 1.5 are the ones thinking the 1j head flows better.
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colpire;1915871 said:
You couldn't get anywhere near 3L with just a bore, you'd go through the wall between the cylinders soon after starting. And if you're hypothetically keeping the same stroke, then yes you'd used the same length rods.
Honestly, you shouldn't attempt anything until have the cash for it in hand. Use the time it takes to save up researching, sounds like you need to learn a couple basics first. Don't finance fun.
A. Jay;1919816 said:
Yea I agree. I called these guys in nj and he said he could supply a 2j that's handpicked for around 2500. I plan on using the pt6262 that i have... and go with pro efi. I'm guessing that 1j and 2j fuel rails are not swappable. So most likely looking at roughly 6 gs for parts. Maybe a little more. Pro efi is expensive
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Albert;1919873 said:
Engine management is the best bang for your buck really.
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