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Personally I'd loop em if you're going to bypass them.

You can get pretty much whatever spring you want from them, and have the revalved as well (of course this all costs money). I don't know about our cars, but I know for the miatas that the factory settings from Tein for the rear, they'll hammer the bumpstops to death because there isn't enough...

The ECU's are tuned differently. Also, it has the side effect of getting better gas milage, lower EGT's, and having knock supression.

Manifold bolts to the head...not the block. R154 bolts right up using the 1JZ bellhousing (it's not called a transfer case, that's for 4x4 trucks and it's bolted to the back of the tranny to split the power to front and rear) It may be your preferance, but by changing the internals you're not...

2J can do that rev limit last I knew. Larger engine = more fuel needed, period. Why would you need a new manifold or transfer case? It all bolts up...

Contrary to popular belief, cats are not restrictions unless they're undersized or clogged.

I'm sure you could have one made if you look around enough.

Dynamat hood liner is flammable...

That lists for manual AND automatic transmissions. The automatic ones are cheaply made and where used on most Toyotas of that age.

Brake cleaner is made to not leave a residue, so it's fine...

Crush sleeve is notorious for causing issues (one of the big cost cutting items in cars, and it sucks). What exactly did you do when you redid the suspension? If you replaced the subframe mounts with solids, that's your answer as it will transmit the noise into the car.

Nope... It's used a bit in the ECU, IIRC it will raise idle a bit to get pressure. It's somewhere in the reverse engineering thread going on.

Proof that with enough power, even a trashcan can fly...

Nope, the black ones are just...black. Also, if you go with bilstein shocks, the lower spring perch has different spots it can sit in so you cna lower the car without changing springs.

They'll try to lowball you (as it's their job to pay the least they need to). Getting a real value is easy, look around on craigslist or on ebay and see what cars in your shape and age ar going for. IMHO it's not totalled as it doesn't look like the damage is bad at all.

On imports vs domestics, what I find shocking is how fast the domestic manufacturers drop support for vehicles...

Battery cables are very easy to make, it just requires some tools, the large crimper is the hardest part. You can just solder the ends on as well, but that requires a torch.

OEM is wrapped, so it's not really plastic. I liked the OEM knob too, but the cost of the TRD knob was far less than a new OEM knob. Plus, the TRD knob is weighted and makes shifting easier.

Mine does the same thing and it's a real one...

TRD knob /thread To be nice, there is a company that makes adapters for the Miata so you can use universal knobs and not have issues with them coming loose (yes they actually work). One could make something just like it for our cars...