Its a metric left hand thread thats fine pitch. If the threads are junk, you're buying another core or at least a good turbine.
Can you post a pic for us?
We need more info on both turbos...
60-1? What turbine wheel? What compressor housings? What turbine housing?
60-1 ct26 that needs a spacer??? Please explain more...
I think Rodney does it better....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soQsCyr0hTw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQ7gFfWZKWU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7o_yz39-ow
Well the 7m has:
-New toyota valves, custom face cut to remove the "7m"
-3 angle valve job
-SBC valve springs
-New valve guide seals
-Gates racing belt
-New oil pan
-Shimmed oil pump
-New front and rear main seals
-Custom valve covers
Did you not ready ANY THING I wrote Mark?
Uh huh. Try telling that to the thousands of diesel truck owners that almost put TurboNetics out of business because they told them all to pound sand.
Thank you. Its going slow. :-(
I hope. Have lots of projects to get going on.
Its an old Greddy / Trust manifold. Very rare so Im told.
Im in whiteland now. Just minutes south of Indy instead of an hour.
Thats indeed something larger than a weld bead. Possibly over heating. Did you have any EGT readings?
As for the turbo:
Garrett's ball bearing turbos use a rear "press fit" inside race on the rear ball bearing. Provided that the bearings & shaft haven't seen as much heat as what your pictures...
Thats not going to work Steve. You need a "nipple" or "tube" extension to get passed the exhaust manifold & flange, then a fitting at the end of the extension.
If you're on a budget, get a good used ct26 and call it a day. Don't rebuild the turbo unless it is a good candidate (small amounts of shaft play, good compressor wheel / turbine wheel).
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