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This. 160psi on a decent impact gun is really cranking. Either A) get a new impact gun, or B) you have the world's strongest crank pulley bolt. Hopefully you replaced that bolt and damper?

Silicone. Check out www.siliconeintakes.com - they have a crap-ton of great quality parts for very competitive pricing.

Shane, 1) ALWAYS put zip ties on the ends of your vacuum hoses. The tiny ones work best, are readily available, and will prevent any vacuum hoses from popping off under boost. 2) Your code 52 has absolutely NOTHING to do with boosting/RPM/engine load or even detonation/pre-ignition. 3) 34...

I'm weary of telling people how to do this over the internet... Not something I like to do, but it's pretty easy. Do some poking around and you'll find out how. :)

Easy way to get into the gas filler if your cable is stuck- Open the hatch, reach through the access panel where the power antenna is. Grab the end of the cable, pull. It's possible. Ask me how I know. (and yes, I did fix it properly shortly after, and yes, much of the interior needs to be...

The Billy M. kit comes with the bronze bushing replacement, and both MarlinCrawler bushings. If you have a w58, get that kit.

34 is probably a boost leak, though that turbo is done for. Get that fixed. Code 52 will retard the timing and enrich fuel mixture. It's an electrical problem with the knock sensor circuit and is generally an easy fix. The 52 will make your car hog gas and sluggish/hate boost. Definitely...

When the hazard switch is unplugged, your running lights, and dash lights will come on at the second click, but when the headlights come on at the third click, the headlights will turn on but the others lights will go out.

Kinky. :naughty:

^LOL that sucks! My non P&S is an oldschool Cannon A-1. I <3 that camera but have no time to just go out and take pics.

My point&shoot is an Olympus Stylus 770sw. It's shock and waterpoof, 7.1 megapixel. It takes pretty good pics, and is touch as nails. I drop it, throw it, drop tools on it, keep it in my back pocket (it's only about 3.5-4" long and maybe an inch thick). I've dropped it on rocks while hiking...

And while you're at it, replace or make a new engine undercover.

I found one used a few years back with no rust. They are out there. I don't think I paid more than $25 for it.

That dude looks just like an older version of one of my friends. LOL. Even acts the same. Made me LOL for real.

Fixed.

Make a bushing puller. ;) I had no problems removing any of mine, uppers and lowers to install nylon bushings.

Good thought, and at least you're trying to make your own. Kudos for that. In all honesty, if you've got an open filter element, you'd be much better off making a proper heat shield to stop the heat from the exhaust manifold from entering the intake. It's funny having more than one project...

For most people, www.superbrightleds.com is plenty. All plug-n-play, most colors that you'd want. I did the dash in my Supra with red 5-way LED's where applicable and it came out perfectly. Even lighting, dimmer still worked as it's supposed to, and had no issues with it at all. And no, I never...

If you poke around on the cygnus site, you will find these: 7MGTE: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=1703&P=2 7MGE: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=1703&P=1 You would then notice that the P/N is the same for the airbox on both the...