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its only $11000ish... thats a pretty good deal, IMO

i couldnt find a crow foot anywhere. Auto Zone had a set, but i forewent it since it was missing the 12mm and i thought thast the size i needed. so i went to sears but those werent long enough. i didnt know where else i could find thse things. i can get to it fairly easily now that i know...

thats a clean 91-92. if thats a hardtop with a sunroof, you have the Ultimate ride! especially if its got the shadow gray interior! omfg, bestest usdm MK3 ftw!!!!! as far as candy coating the clear lenses, thats basically what i was picturing in my mind. thats totally what i would do if i...

check the fuel filter. otherwise, your fuel pump is either wearing out or its the wiring for the pump, or the gauge itself. feel the wires going into the tank. if they are hot, like too hot to hang onto, its altering the resistance for the worse. its requring more current to do the same job...

i see nothing on my car im at a loss...

whoa... thats an MX73 right? the 4lug car? did you use a swap from an SC300? sounds kind of interesting. did you stay auto or convert to 5sp?

what are you drilling? you couldnt find breadboard/pcb at radio shack to work with? i know ive seen them in the project section... thats what i had intended to use if i ever did the LED thing...

how do you like the dry clutches??? dirty? high maintenance? expensive?

this is what i came up with on the translator its almost like reading shakespeare.

i agree. the fronts tend to do this. a 5mm spacer ought to take care of that, imo.

all you need is a good driving habit really. the W58 typically tends to suffer from weaker gears themselves. so there really isnt much you can do to make it stronger aside from using a smooth engaging clutch and avoid dumping it or power-shifting when racing... also, to avoid jamming gears...

the HKS 7M destroker kit from their drag car. i already have the T88-38GK (~$2900) Speedforceracing T4 flanged manifold for the 7M whatever EMS system on the F1 cars for the 7M Solenoid actuated valve-train For the 7M 3UR-FE, Twin SP71GTS. Second the notion on Chromoly...

heres the measurements for my volks, which are mkiv fitment. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=689824&postcount=31

they look like rpo-somethings. is that supposed to be a t51r-kai? looks cute. is that a 1G-AFC in the glovebox hole? and a Profec B-spec? oh, and he said "Fuck yo sogi-shifter-san"

you need forged pistons, forged aluminum rods, close the chamber on the head, run higher compression, about 10-10.5:1, run on straight VP import, run it off a stand alone, short runner intake with a 6 liter surge tank, 105mm TB, 4" ic pipes with adel-wiggens clamps... that oughta get you...

why would there be an AC fitting half way down the frame rail in the middle of the car?

didnt have a problem, i just couldnt keep it. so i had to block it off. and with the new lines

lol dave.. yeah, i agree with you there. if you can mount it so its isolated from the body, it will most certainly not be "loud"... especially if you mounted it under the car. i figured the Weldons (some) werent as loud since not all weldons are gearrotor drive and actually a cam lobe... but...

Nicely done. youre quite a patient individual. +1 for you man. Lol, Poodles... you and your damn tranny jack. im a sucker for punishment... or just a cheap-ass!

poodles.. i know the feeling. the new wheels and tires i put on my ram were freaking heavy. 265/75/17's, Load range E on some chrome-clad Steelies from an 05 Ram... If my truck wasnt so close to the ground, i woulda slipped a disc trying to lift them on the Axle! btw, when i changed out my...