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lol... no... i dont row gears rapidly and hope that Reverse isnt "looking" so i can slip it in. i put it in reverse, hold it against the resistance and slowly let up on the clutch untill i hit the friction point. it bumps the gearsets and reverse meshes up and the shifter slides right in...

are your turn signals operating erratically because you need a different flasher relay? those do look bright indeed, and quite even too. youre excessive LED usage has worked out as you expect. how much were the pcb's compared to whatever you just used?

doward... thats almost crazy enough to work! a Y block would also be feasible. but most of them are -6 or 1/2" npt tops... unless you pay top dollar for a big badass ones. yeah, yours right on that tank dropping... im still used to mkiv's and being able to do it from inside the trunk. the...

yeah, doward is right. and i like what IJ said about clutchless shifting. it certainly works just fine...however, your gearbox may "like" it, but the driveline and motor mounts wont like it. when i do it the clutchless downshift, the car lurches pretty hard. also. doing 100mph in 5th and...

so, it just came to me, talking to Justin since he asked me if i came up w/ a better idea than just running walbros. since hes paranoid about walbros, i figured id brainstorm with him... heres what i came out with; Run a regular walbro (or maybe even the stock pump) in the stock location on...

yeah, i would have to agree with you. everything ive seen and heard has only pointed to that being the problem. i just figured that 1-4 could make the R154 as strong as the V160. ive seen R154's behind 800rwhp cars before but in stock form, they only lasted a year or two at the most. I...

honestly, if i were after a full panel effect to illuminate the ENTIRE lens... i would invesnt in some EL film. its quite affordable in managable sheets on Ebay and various online vendors. it doesnt quite have the life expectancy of LED"s though.

no, that bar which bolts to the trans tunnel you are thinking of is a guide for the seats. it keeps the seat perpendicular to the rails as the seat slides back and forth on them. without this guide, the seat has the potential to yaw or turn to one side or the other as you slide it forward or...

lol... yeah, i agree. if your car is bad-ass enough to be offered w/ something as exotic as a retractable top or removable roof, you Should get it... Go big or go home, as we say! the sunroof is just a nice compromise between a stiff hardtop and a floppy open roof.

ill try that next time i go up to my friend's work. my steering wheel didnt lock solidly. there was a few degrees of play in the column and when i pushed and pulled on the tires, i could hear the steering wheel hitting the steering lock. the rack didnt SEEM to move, nothing blatantly obvious but...

well... sometimes it can be too much. i saw a full panel LED conversion that this guy did for his CRX and it lit up the entire lens and it was practiclly blinding. but it was a better "effect" since it was very even. i had planned to keep it simple by making a the running lights out of 10mm...

i have a tranny and mount out of an 87 turbo and its hooked, for a rubber donut. my 91 had the peg w/ a flared tip on it to use the later style rubber mount, Just one though. actually, now that i think about it, it WAS my rx7 that had a hook on the frame and on the tranny and the exhaust had...

thats what i was GONNA post... but i was afraid i was confusing the frame-mounted hanger with my RX7... it must be the rear cat hanger right? on a pre89, uses rubber donuts to suspend the exhaust between the rear tranny mount and the frame rail?

touche... lol, why not use 10mm LED's for the tails?

i dont see the exhaust housing AR in there...

on the retorque... alot of people misunderstand it. after corresponding with an ARP fastener rep, i was informed that ARP fasteners do NOT need to be retorqued after engine run-in. the "retorque" that an ARP fastener needs is BEFORE the engine is ever run. essentially, what you need...

lol... i concur. i think im in need of some bushings. i seem to have alot of tram-lining in my car as well as some noise from the front end going over bumps. you guys think the bushings could be the culprit? my steering linkage, wheel bearings and ball joints all seem to be tight. i have...

really? the nhra rules state you need 6 full rotations of thread engagment, short of having the studs protruding thru the nut. i figure as long as i have that much, extra is expendible. i have 1/4" spacers on my truck if that means anything to you guys. i only have a few threads on the...

man, i wish i had the balls to just go out and get a TIG welder... i have a 120v GMAW... without the G. im using 0.030" flux core. my welds turn out ok but the slag makes it harder to start a weld backup after stopping to reposition the piece. plus, the tips wear out fast. when i was trying to...

haha... thats awesome..> F the T56!! i should ask him and see what he says. i actually had ideas about taking apart a stock tranny and contracting a local machinest/gear cutter to make the same gears only with straight cut teeth, 1st thru 4th. i dont see a need for a straight cut 5th so...