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Update for those interested: The car definitely has more power, but the in-cabin resonance around 2200rpm got to me. It was too loud, and I started to worry about my hearing. While it wasn't too bad on the highway around 3k rpm, it resonated under bridges enough to tell me it was too loud. My...

I put in a new upper cable. While the cluster was out, I moved the grease around at the input to the speedometer trying to push it gently in. That probably helped. What finally tipped me off was I noticed that the needle would bounce (classic sign of a worn cable) and squeak in time. As in, as...

It the squeak related to engine or vehicle speed? It's unlikely that the fan coupling would squeak. With the engine off, turn the fan by hand and see how the bearing feels. On cold startup, the coupling is "locked" so the fan should be roaring for about 30 seconds until the oil inside is...

I'll check my stash this evening to see if I saved my old one. Which piece do you want - the short bottom piece or the longer upper piece? N/A or Turbo? Mine would be for an N/A.

At this point, you're pretty much stuck with a cat-back from Bosel or something custom. The Bosel isn't terrible, and it is quiet and cheap from Rock Auto. Raptor Racing may still make you one of theirs, even though the group buy is over. Look for them in the vendor section.

After a bit of drawing the crank pulley and cam gears in a 2D CAD package, I can say that shaving 0.030 off a head will result in about 1 degree of timing error between the crank and valves. That's not enough to keep the engine from running.

There's a "C washer" you have to bend open to get the one shoe off the brake lever. The TSRM shows it all. I find you don't need the tool to get the hold-down cups on and off if you have strong fingers. They are the most annoying part of the process. Locking needle-nose pliers are great for...

After driving it to work today, since my summer car is down with a flat tire, I can say on the highway it's quieter now than it was with the Bosel exhaust. That's running 3000-3200rpm (about 70mph). There's no drone at all. It's loudest from 2k-3k with moderate throttle, but that's no surprise...

I'll take some pictures this weekend when I'm under there checking for leaks again. The resonator is as long as it can be. The tail end looks just like the one in post #40. It certainly would drone at certain throttle positions. I'll find out... WOT is nice and not super loud. I didn't seem...

Well, I finally got my Raptor Racing exhaust put on last weekend. It took some fiddling to get it so it didn't bump against the car, but it wasn't too bad. I did have to get some more flange gaskets because it wouldn't seal against the ancient and rusty cat flange at all with just one. It's...

I have a pair of Continental DWS tires on the rear of my 350Z and I like them a lot (255/45-17). Now, they've not yet seen snow, but I do know that their traction in the rain is just about the same as in the dry. Dry traction is good, too, no matter the temperature. They've been quiet as well.

IIRC, my AFM does just that. The resistance goes up and down as I open the flapper, though overall the trend is up. It's done that every time I've checked it over the past 10 years. I can check it again this weekend. I thought it strange, but the computer doesn't complain about it and the car...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=95 I quote: Resistance between VS and E2 will change in a wave pattern as the measuring plate slowly opens. That is, it's not a monotonic sweep through resistance as the flap moves from closed to open. Page 94 of the TSRM shows...

Go with either the Purolator PL30001 or the Wix 51515. There's plenty of room for the longer filter.

It's a no-brainer with a N/A. I've had the larger 51515-size filter on there since the first time I changed the oil, some 18 years ago. Bigger filter - costs less - works better - what's not to love?

If you have the 7mge engine computer, there is a pin for the check engine light. You should be able to read any codes directly with a voltmeter or lamp off that pin.

I'm not sure right off what's up with your spark, but have you checked the cold start injector timer switch? If the cold start injector is running all the time it'll run very rich. Next, have you checked for any codes from the FI computer? That's always a good place to start. Is your O2...

All 4 hinges are still available for around $40 each, if you'd rather just buy them. upper 68710-14050 R 68720-14060 L lower 68730-14060 R 68740-14060 L

Make sure the screen in the reservoir isn't blocked with crud. That's a typical problem.

Lock sets aren't available new anymore, last I checked about a year ago. Getting them rebuilt by a decent locksmith or getting used ones are your only options. Asterix