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Oh, I'm the Lurker of Power! A few of the other guys always answer the good questions before I can get to them, but I check out this place regularly.

I've had socket-head screws in there for ages (stainless). Get a ball-nose driver with a screwdriver handle and it's just not possible to overtighten them just with hand torque. My driver is probably 8" long. Plus, you can easily tighten 9 of them any time. Good grommets are important, too.

Every day it's under about 70F I drive my 88 NA. Someday maybe I'll fix the AC... Meanwhile, it's my winter car. It was my only car from 1992 to 2003 when I bought a 350Z because I could and I needed a 2nd car for when the other was down. Plus, the head gasket went a 2nd time about then because...

What I want is a Viton block vent hose. As in the one that goes from the block under the alternator to the valve cover at the oil filler cap. The regular rubber ones turn hard and crack after only a few years. I'd probably also buy a idle air bypass hose made of Viton. I already went with Viton...

The 350Z's front suspension has 2 lower ball joints. The geometry of how that works is what gives it such a strong return-to-center feel. The rack is faster in the Z, but not by much. Disconnecting the power steering in your Supra won't make any difference over about 25mph. Lots of newer cars...

There's a guy in Dallas that used to sell them through EBay. I'll have to look up his info after I get home. The one I got from him looks factory new, but cost way less. I believe I found out about him from a thread here on Supramania. www.dallassteeringwheel.com He still has an EBay store...

I can do a front one in about 1.5 hours and I've done it a couple of times. The rears take a little longer because there's more stuff to take off. It's not hard, but you do need to follow the procedure in the TSRM. You must use an impact wrench to take the nut off (36mm IIRC). Strong 2- and...

I took a file to my clips to make them large enough.

Looks like it's easy: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=MT&P=73 I changed out the output seal on a W58 easily before.

Yes, Hidden Hitch makes one that bolts on using those holes. You have to take off the bumper skin and cut out a section. There's a u-shaped metal strip underneath outside that gets cut as well. It's a class 1 hitch, so it'll pull 600lbs. I've had one for many years, which mostly get used to drag...

Mine went over 180k before going. I can attribute my BHG to a clogged radiator. If you keep your cooling system working, the stock head gasket should last forever. Then again, at 180k my valve guides were on the edge of spec, so the head was about ready to be rebuilt anyway.

There's no reason for the MC to seal against the booster. Toyota used a thin gasket that's basically a piece of paper which doesn't really do anything. The booster should hold vacuum by itself even out of the car. How are the big vacuum hoses to the booster? They get old and stiff and don't...

Check your booster adjustment. If you pull off the vacuum hose to the booster and the brakes let go, that's the problem. Did you get a master cylinder for a car with ABS? The one without is different.

The one I just bought was for my N/A and fits like the original. 86300-14362 is what I got.

Toyota has masts, cables, and complete units. I just bought a new complete one a few months ago. It wasn't cheap, like $200, but it'll last another 20 years. The new one is made better than the old one and shouldn't ever rust out like my old one did. There is no aftermarket power antenna that...

Just passed 240,000 miles on my '88 NA a couple of days ago. The engine rebuild has maybe 30k on it.

It seems to me my right front sets the ABS off first consistently on dry pavement, but that's just a feeling. (Veering a little off topic) My '04 350z is most definitely biased towards the rear. I know this both by how the rear pads go away faster and guys that race this car complain about...

My last emissions test on my '88 NA was yesterday and I thought I'd share the results. Since it'll be 25 years old (from the model year) in 2013, I won't need another test. It passed again this time, though with less margin than last time. This is a treadmill/dyno test done at the same station...

This document tells you everything you need to know about brake boosters. The output shaft (master cylinder side) is loose, as in it will pull out part way. The input shaft (pedal side) shouldn't be loose at all. It will pivot but not wiggle in and out. The drawing on page 2 of that document...

My '88 NA has a green one, too. I bought the car when it was 5 years old, so it's possible it was changed from original, but unlikely. Maybe the NAs with the sport package (like mine) got green fan clutches?