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I've had spacers for many years on my front shocks that raise the lower spring perch. They are short tubes I turned out of some chrome-moly steel that slip over the shock body and sit on the clip there. The lower perch sits on my tube. The shocks are Koni yellows, and the springs are Tokiko's. I...

Many years ago, I unfortunately found a guy who didn't know how to adjust both toe and camber in the rear. He didn't know how because the book he had only mentioned the front cam bolt. He put the toe barely in spec, which put the camber out of spec. So, I went home and got my Toyota book...

Thanks! I've had a leak from that area for a while now that I've not identified. It certainly could be the same place that yours was. Like you, I replaced my #6 hose with new spring clamps first, but it didn't fix my leak either. I've run a pressure test when cold, but it doesn't leak when cold...

There's a guy in Dallas, Tx that recovers steering wheels and does a great job. He goes through ebay as dallascustomsw. (http://stores.ebay.com/dallascustomsteeringwheel) He can recover any wheel you send to him. I bought a gray one several years ago and it looked just as good as original with a...

It'll do that no matter which way the washers are. The washers, subframe tube, and 2 short inner tubes take the bolt clamping force, essentially making one long tube. The sleeves inside the red bushings should not turn. The only force between the washers and bushing faces is from the upper...

Link in post #8 = the manual.

Upper arm washers go in like the left side of your picture. You want the polyu. bushing to rub on the washer, as it will keep the arm in place properly. The lower cams go with the ears on the frame. The bolt doesn't matter so much. Do it the way it's easiest. Make sure you can get the bolt out...

Nope. Not only is nylon not up to the task as a bearing material, using it in the rear lower arms is asking for breakage.

Oops - I must've gone from memory for 32mm... 36 sounds correct. I spent a few minutes with a bench grinder taking some metal off the 2-jaw puller's ends so it would fit into the two slots on the spindle. The puller I have is (from memory) a 12-ton 2- or 3-jaw Craftsman. I also had to...

This is the 7mge section, after all. My 350z came with the crappiest tires I have ever owned. To be fair, they were summer tires, but even so they weren't that great in the summer. Below about 45F, they were hopeless to the point of being dangerous. I lost at least 1 race because I couldn't...

Since I own both an '88 7MGE and an '04 350Z, I can say the 350Z is quite a bit quicker than the Supra. It has more power and it weighs a few hundred pounds less. Both of my cars have manual transmissions. Of course, even if the 350Z is faster, the driver may not know how to use it. My Supra...

I'm happy with my B&M carbon-fiber-look knob. I bought it for looks and the claim that it would fit the threads. Turned out it was a "universal" fit, which means the hole is some huge diameter like 3/4" and it came with stupid and worthless plastic inserts. So, I went to the hardware store and...

You need a strong 2-jaw puller, a 3-jaw puller, and a press. Most of the SSTs in the manual are from the "Universal Puller" set. I had to grind a little on the fingers of a 2-jaw puller to get them to fit in the little cavities for pushing out the hub. The 3-jaw puller is for removing the inner...

When it's cold, mine don't like to lock, so I take off the door panels and spray every hinge and slide of the whole lock system with a good lubricant. (That's either Tri-flow or Superlube, depending on which is closer to my hand.) That helps for a while, but I'm still locking both doors with the...

I'm happy with my Hushpower II. Summit has them in various sizes. I got the longest one in 2.5" they had. Butt-dyno said no effect on power from a very loud straight-through "resonator". It still drones going up hills around 2200 rpm, so I just downshift.

A car with a turbo doesn't need a resonator because the turbo quiets it down considerably. Without a turbo, you will want a resonator or you'll be driving with earplugs in. And, not just a straight-through one. I am very happy with my setup: 2.5" pipe, Hushpower II resonator, and a Magnaflow...

Reminds me of the V4 in the Sonett III I owned many years ago... It had a balance shaft, though it ran at crank speed. Not a bad little engine.

I bought one from Rock Auto about a year and a half ago. It was of Mexican origin and looked just fine to me. My original core was wrapping in sticky-backed foam, which was missing on the new one. It took me some effort to find foam to stuff around it that would take the temperature of hot...

Waytek Wire has many choices. Here are some to look at. You'll need a crimp tool and terminals, too.

Fuel hose will get hard and crack quickly. I bought 2 feet of Viton hose from McMaster for about $20 and it's still like new many years later.