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For what it's worth, my impression is, without any measured data, that a 1-piece driveshaft wears out the trans output bearing way faster than the 2-piece one. This is for the W58. I tried two different 1-piece aluminum shafts from two different places and they always vibrated. I had one...

That occurred to me, 3p... According to the Wikipedia, the W58 was used all the way up to the 2005 IS300. My concern is buying a $2400 transmission that I can't return and my bellhousing and tail housing (with ABS) don't fit or the input/output shafts are different. I'm sure the IS300 one is...

To add grip, you need to drain the oil and refill with oil that has less slip additive. There's nothing you can add to reduce the slip. Start with Redline's 75W90NS and add the friction modifier (also from Redline) until it's as quiet as you like. If you add too much slip, you get to start over...

Yeah, well... I rebuilt my diff because there was way too much play in the R&P, I thought the bearings were making noise, and I wanted more grip. And, I figured while I was in there, I'd make sure I had more grip than I needed, because it's so much easier to add slip than grip. Plus, this is...

I have stock sawblades with 225/50 Continental DWS tires. Nothing fancy. I can see how much grippier tires probably would reduce the hopping. The "regular" Red Line 75W90 has too much slip now. But, this just means I need to find something in between. The bottle of friction modifier says on...

(Thanks for the suggestion, 3p.) Today I drained my NS + 120ml of additive and replaced it with "regular" Red Line 75W90 I had on my shelf. I think it's closer to what I want, but on the slip side. I'll know fer sure after driving the car to work tomorrow, as I just tooled around the...

I hear ya, Nosechunks. I want good grip too, but where it is now, the car hops around tight corners under power. That's not good. I can live with the groaning and such, but not with hopping. After sitting overnight, it's slightly less grippy, but is still too much. I'd like it to be smoother...

After a few weeks, I finished driving the 500 miles recommended for break-in. I used Valvoline as break-in oil. After draining that, I refilled with Redline 75W90NS, and added 20ml of the slip additive. It took very little time to start gripping like crazy, like backing out of my garage and...

33030-22710 is no longer available from Toyota. Time for me to decide between rebuilding it myself or shipping it off to someone who can do it right.

I figured, but thought I'd ask. The rear trans mount looks slightly different in the EPC, though, between the two versions. Different part numbers for the bolts, too. The 89+ trans mount looks to be taller in the EPC than the pre-89, but as I said, I wouldn't bet on the accuracy of those line...

Does anyone know if an 89+ W58 manual transmission will fit in a pre-89 car? Seems to me that it should. The Wikipedia article on the W-series suggests the only difference is the 89+ has a steel sandwich plate. They drawings in the Cygnus EPC look very similar, but I wouldn't bet on the accuracy...

I have an NA... 4.3 is necessary. It's my daily driver, mainly in the winter. Finding another used 4.3 LSD in my neighborhood proved to be impossible.

All done! It's back in the car and seems to be running well. Between the exhaust and worn-out transmission noise, it's hard to tell... The hardest part is now not romping on it for 500 miles.

Update: After painting again with prussian blue and then some almond Rustoleum oil paint, I got better photos of the pattern, which I can post if anyone wants to see them. Clamping the carrier down to my workbench probably also helped, as I could get more force on the gears. Weir has declared...

Have you checked your tire pressures? I find if one rear tire is low enough it does this. Or, the alignment shop got the thrust angle off. Check your alignment report.

Next, I went to check the pattern, which looks funny to me. It's not bad for one tooth, for each drive and coast sides, but they don't match. That is, where the drive side is fine, the coast is to the inside. I need to check in more places around the ring gear and see what it's like there...

Update: I received my two new side washers, -52001 and -52023. Together they gave me good preload. However, my backlash is still 0.002". Weir has offered to make me a side washer that's 0.096" thick, which would give 0.008" of backlash. What I may do is grind down one side bearing face so it...

Weir won't tell me who made the R&P. It's European - that's all I can tell. I could find no other source for a 4.3 set. The part that confuses me is when I did some quick dimension checks between new and old R&P, they measure very close to the same (ring gear height, pinion gear height &...

Argh! It looks like my new ring and pinion doesn't fit. I tried the thinnest side gear plate washer (spacer between the case and carrier) and the thinnest pinion spacer under the rear bearing and I get only about 2 mils of backlash on the ring gear. Time to ask Weir for advice, as he sold me the...

I wanted to make sure I could get a rear pinion bearing off intact, in case I had to do so while setting up the rebuild. There's a chance I'll need to change that spacer that goes on under it. I paid about $140 for a new bearing, and it was somewhat hard to get, so I really don't want to mess it...