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Read about this today. I <3 cats (and dogs, too)- that bitch!

Nice! :) Yeah, dude, details! I've got a Hobart Handler 210. It's a great MIG. Getting a plasma cutter this winter with my sick time buy out, then going for a TIG after that and I'll be almost set. I get all giddy just thinking about it. LOL.

Chunks- check out www.weldingtipsandtricks.com - there's a plethora of information there. The site is a bit odd to navigate at times, but overall it's a great resource. He recommends a Miller Syncrowave 250 for TIG. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwB4PESPAlI

e36 M3. LOL. Terribly built, interior rattles like crazy, and there's a plethora of things that routinely go wrong with them. If it wasn't so damn fun, I'd sell it. My old beater '71 Chevy c-10 stepside was better built, and my Toyota Pickup has been put through the wringer and I can't kill...

I'm with mattsplatt as well. If he just doesn't know any better, there's no harm in letting him join. You will be surprised how much the influence of good people will change how he views things (like his own car) and how much he knows, as well as how to properly apply that knowledge. Ignorance...

No it doesn't. The 7MGTE uses a Karman Vortex metering system. The N/A's use a vane type system which is less accurate, and it's NOT like a MAF/HFM (hot wire type sensor). Swapping to GTE electronics opens more doors for easy tuning BECAUSE of the AFM (karman type), but if you want to get rid...

"What's THAT? :looks of disgust and fingers pointed toward garage: Went from this: To this (lol)

Pulling the steering column isn't that difficult. Two 17mm nuts right at the dash support brace, one nut on the universal joint under the hood, a few 10mm bolts at the base. Remove the theft deterrant ECU, and unplug the ignition wiring, etc. Shouldn't take you more than an hour or two.

Sounds like they ran the power for the starter right through the switch, rather than using a relay! Yikes!

That's just because Mike is baller. He doesn't have aluminum intake manifold and piping. Straight up gold, son. See 'dem wheelz? Gooooold.

You can view the page at http://www.supramania.com/forums/content.php?181-How-To-basic-timing-instructions-CPS-alignment

If your cable is stretched, a simple spacer on the hatch end will do wonders. ;)

Ehh... depends. LOL. The Merc looks nice. Plans for it?

They do run wide though. The 255/40/17 Dunlop Star Specs have 10" of contact patch. I just put a set of 255 squared on my M3. They're amazing. Glue. They don't get nearly as greasy as my old Azenis rt-615's got on the Supra. Those got greasy after a bit of hard driving. The SS's just stick...

Sorry, I was just abbreviating Intake Manifold. :)

And retard the timing. Fuel mileage will be bad, power output will be low. Agreed, however clearing the code will require replacing the sensor, pulling the EFI fuse for 30 seconds, and hoping that your wiring is good. And it's code 52, not code 51. Correct.

Even if I tried to run, he'd just grab the ground and yank it out from under my feet. There really is no escape from Little Herc. If I tried to hide indoors, he'd just pick the house up and shake me out. If I tried to drive away, he'd just lift the back of my car off the ground. Certain doom.

Higher risk of detonation, simply due to the higher static compression ratio. However, if you take the time to do it properly you won't have any issues. You need to tune it, or have it tuned well. Best way, in my opinion, is to run all GTE wiring and electronics. (including the ECU) If I ever...

I'm unsure of how thick the IM material is, however, you are correct that pre-heating will allow you to get better penetration on thicker metals. That goes for pretty much anything. If you find that site, post it back up. I'd be interested to poke around. (I have a crap ton of scrap steel...