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First, please explain why/how you think you've bent a rod. I suggest doing a LOT of reading before trying to just drop the motor in and make 400hp. Also, trusting an old motor of unknown history to make 400hp reliably isn't usually the best idea, although many do it with varying levels of...

I want an M3.

No oil squirters ever on the N/A blocks, oil squirters should be in every North American GTE block. Early JDM blocks didn't have them, but they were added in late '89 or '90 I believe. What are your power goals, those are two radically different options, and regarding the AEM, that's a full...

Again, that all depends on power goals, though, the turbo pistons will be more forgiving simply because of the lower compression they provide. Less compression= less heat= less of a chance of detonation. If you plan to make big power, the stock GTE block will allow you to run more boost. If...

In all honesty, I wouldn't waste your time trying to use the GE electronics. The GTE setup will make it much, much easier to pull off, and with a larger safety margin to boot. Running a 9:1 CR 7MGTE even on low boost you're going to want to run 93 octane. Running the GTE electronics puts a fuel...

Hugz4uDunck!

In this case it's less a matter of physical strength, more a matter of having a good tune. Hell, stock pistons (both N/A and Turbo) can support 500rwhp, which has been done many times. (and often times more than that- like x-man's stock motor pushing 700+rwhp) But if you detonate you can kiss...

I wouldn't risk running 87 octane in it. 7MGTE's use 93, (though you can get away with less, but I would not) and your motor will have a higher static compression ratio when off boost. I'd run nothing but 93 in it. One of the main things you need to be worried about is detonation with a 9:1 CR...

I put [video] tags on it so it embeds. :)

Crank wheel full lock + depress accelerator fully = ass end comes around.

Post pics! :) It would be a good reference for anyone else attempting to do this. And thank you for actually updating the thread, most people just vanish after getting the answer they were looking for and never make an attempt to let us know how it worked out!

Most definitely deserves a repost. :) I love that car, and the 510 in general. I'm pretty sure it was posted here at one point before the above link as well, when it still had a 7M under the hood. So this would be the third time I believe. Or I read it somewhere else.

Sooo... whatcha doin' later? :naughty: You in!? (That makes three, but I'm always down for a good time!)

Not unless you press the A/C button on the climate control. Sent from my Spoon using Tapatalk

Stupid ricers: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oArzG2zGXj4

www.4cefed.com

LOL'd!

Welcome. :) Sky is the limit, dude. Build it well, and to exacting tolerances. Tune it very well, leaving a margin for error (bad gas, etc...) and you'll have no problem making serious power.

I haven't had a Supra on the road (or even with a motor in it, all by choice, not because I broke stuff) in about five years. I know it's easy to lose the bug, but think of how the car makes you feel when it's properly set up. If that's not enough to keep you going then perhaps it's time to...

Good choice. If you use brute force, you'll tear the sheet metal quite a bit would be my guess. The battery tray is stamped steel, and as such will be stronger than the flat sheet metal it's welded to.