Battery tray removal question

nuggets

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Apr 14, 2009
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Boston
I've relocated my battery to the back seat area (removed the seats) and moved my coolant overflow tank to the stock battery location. I want to purchase an aftermarket overflow tank so I can make room for my coolant filter (I'll put both side by side in the stock battery area). In order to gain more height I've been thinking about removing the stock battery tray (the metal part under the plastic tray) and was wondering if any of you have done that. If so, what's the best way to do so? Part of me was thinking brute force with a pry bar but I don't know how well it's welded on there. Maybe a sawzall or grinder?
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
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My best bet is that it's spot welded and a pry bar would do a lot more damage than you want. So find the spot welds and drill them out.
Use a designated spot weld drill or another one with a ground tip.
 

VooDoo

Draggin ass on his build
Mar 20, 2008
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Valdosta ,Ga
What he said. Use a centerpunch on all the spot welds and then drill them. Its what I did. Just take your time and get them all.
 

shaeff

Kurt is FTMFW x2!!!!
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Mar 30, 2005
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Good choice. If you use brute force, you'll tear the sheet metal quite a bit would be my guess. The battery tray is stamped steel, and as such will be stronger than the flat sheet metal it's welded to.
 

nuggets

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Apr 14, 2009
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The 3/8 spot weld bit worked like a charm. There were about 8 welds that I had to drill out but it didn't take long at all.
 

shaeff

Kurt is FTMFW x2!!!!
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Post pics! :) It would be a good reference for anyone else attempting to do this. And thank you for actually updating the thread, most people just vanish after getting the answer they were looking for and never make an attempt to let us know how it worked out!
 

nuggets

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Apr 14, 2009
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Here are some pics. For people that are new to this (like I was): you can find the spot welds by either looking closely or running your finger across the metal - you'll feel a circular indentation. I used a 3/8" spot weld drill bit but I think you could use a 1/2" version if you wanted too - the larger bit may ensure that you get the weld out on the first try. Before using the spot weld bit, I drilled a pilot hole in the center of each weld. This allows the guide on the spot weld bit to sit in something and it helps avoid the bit from walking.

I drilled completely through both sheets of metal (tray and body) because I figured that filling the holes would be easier than trying to grind them down, not to mention that I don't have a grinder (the spot weld bit will cut around the weld and leave the center portion of metal unless you go all the way through). Note that there was one hole that I didn't go completely through because the metal was pretty thick in that area (it's on the top of the pic, second from the left).

After I finished drilling all the holes out, the tray was still fastened in there, probably by a small bit of weld left over from the drilling and by a rubbery type sealant used on some of the tray edges. To get the tray out, I first tried to pull up on the left end with a large pair of pliers. It didn't move much so then I got a chisel and hammered between the tray and body which loosened up what was left of the 2 leftmost welds and also cut through the sealant. Once I had the first 2 left holes completely loose, I could then use the pliers to pull up the battery tray.

I'll sand the rusty area's, then fill the holes with Bondo and sand, paint with a Rustoleum sandable primer, and then hit it with a can of 043 White.
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