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Filling the cylinder with rope worked quite well for me. be sure the rope is fairly stiff so it doesn't try to knot itself inside the cylinder. Other helpful tools include a valve keeper removal/install tool ($45 and makes removing and installing the keepers an absolute breeze) and a set of...

Not stripped! (not sure how...sure felt like it when I was torquing originally) Torqued again and all is well.

Sure the unique factor is there, but turbo tech has come leaps and bounds in the last few years. Thats part of the reason you see so many OEMs going the turbo route these days. A well sized single will likely fit the bill for 90% of people here. I just moved to a 6065 billet turbo, and it has...

Thanks Steve. Looks like I won't be able to test until next week unfortunately. Heading to LV this afternoon and this pesky job is keeping me from driving my car during the day lol.

Understandable at 18 psi...I'm running less than 9 though. What were your afrs doing during the sputter? I'm not backfiring either. I think I may have just set up the boost controller like an idiot.

Over 4000 rpm (or during the time when the wastegate would be trying to control boost), pretty much all the way to redline. On one particular log, the AFR stayed between 11.5-11.6 the entire time the hesitation was happening. On the wastegate alone (~1.5 psi less than the above condition)...

OK, after doing some more reading about the AEM Gauge boost controller, it appears as though I may be an idiot and set up the boost controller wrong. I interpreted waste gate crack pressure to be the total pressure of the WG spring. Apparently setting the SPR function too high (turns out it is...

Fairly certain that "mystery cable" is the ground strap to the engine block... I haven't messed around in that area in a few years, so you might want to double check that you don't already have a large gauge wire bolted to the side of the block. might explain why the starter isn't working.

lol, you have some reading to do. the answer to your question could potentially be several pages long. if you are going through the expense and trouble of "all forged internals and the head will have titanium valves", is$450 worth of injectors going to break the bank? Or could you just be a...

Already have a relay-driven 10 AWG line to the pump. All body ground points are also tied together with 10 AWG lines as well.

I'd imagine I've got enough pump (walbro fwiw), since I had no problems dropping fuel pressure at boost levels up to 15 psi previously. Injector duty at max RPM is only around 40% so I've got a lot of room to play with. I do have a fuel pressure sensor that I need to wire in to the AEM and...

Steepened the boost comp curve a bit more, and am now hitting 11.5-11.7 in the lower RPM range. Higher rpm is still around 12.3 so I need to do some messing with the fuel map. I haven't upped the boost yet since I want to sort out the AFR first. It is pulling a lot harder now with the lower...

yep. extremely easy to stick in there, easy to get out.

The physical igniter is the same, so you should be able to use the guide provided in the standalone section. Here's a tip - if you take the back panel off the stock igniter, you'll be able to see that it indicates which wire is which.

unfortunately, work is preventing a test drive. and by work, I mean golf tournament. edit: did some low boost runs where afrs hovered around 12. nothing strange happening, and nothing funky in the logs. added some additional fuel to the map and we'll see what that does at higher boost...

Well, I've added around 10% to the boost comp graph, so I'll go for a drive in a bit and see where I am.

I suppose the one thing I did do was remove and re-install the CPS. It was sitting with the gear up so there is a chance oil could have leaked into the body. I'll check on this...

Yep, brand new condition. Nothing else has been changed other than what was necessary for the turbo install (manifold, wastegate, intake pipe, etc). Can't pull codes since I'm on the AEM. I will do some logging though. I had a thought that I might also be experiencing some aggressive timing...

use grease and a bolt that just fits into the pilot bearing (M10 maybe). pack grease behind the bearing, and pound the bolt with a hammer. It will hydraulically eject the pilot bearing.

Some background: Had the AEM-equipped car tuned on a dying 60 trim CT upgrade. Boosted to 13 psi no problem, but, as mentioned, the turbo was toast. Fast forward to today. The current turbo setup is a 6065 billet turbo on a tubular manifold, controlled by an AEM gauge boost controller...