Thanks for the info. Please note that I had a sweet running gte and changed to full synthetic 0-40 and spun a rod bearing in 100 miles. Yes it was a used engine and ran well with 10-30 castrol, but spun #1 bearing so badly that in 10 miles there was no bearing shell left. I replaced the crank...
I checked the TRSM again and notice that it shows a large oil cooler for cars with the auto trans, and a second small unit in series for the stick shift cars. My 87 non turbo came with the slush box and did not have any oil cooler at all. As I am now running a turbo 5 speed, all that came with...
Fresh rebuild, stock crank polished and checked, new oil pump, spun engine with fuel inop and ignition inop until oil pressure began to rise. Shimmed both oil pump bypass valve and oil pressure regulator valve 5mm. Upon cold start, aftermarket (cheap) mechanical oil gauge reads 60 psi at fast...
Just finished rebuild of 7M gte and runs fine, but when trying to set timing, shorting the two pins in the test port has no effect. Timing at idle shows 13 BTDC at max adjustment, so I pulled the CPS and moved one tooth but would then could not adjust enough to run at all. Moved back and runs...
Ok, you got me, the pump I got came from the shop doing my machine work and came without the pick up tube. I have a o ring coming from my local dealer. Sorry about the spark scatter comment, as that relates only to my experience with sbc. They drive the distributor and oil pump from the same...
Interesting. I bought a new OEM pump and it did not come with the pick up tube nor the cross pipe. Why would I want to shim the bypass valve? The stock set up gives plenty of pressure and increasing pressure simply wastes horsepower. I've seen lots of guys raise the pressure on small block...
How come when I buy a "complete" gasket set is does not include the o ring between the oil pump pick up and the pump? And what about the metal gasket that covers the spark plugs? These seem to loose their coating and thus do a poor job of sealing off the plug area, but where can I get a new one...
Thanks to all responders. I pulled the crank fro the old 7M-GE that came with this car (BHG) and had my regular machine shop check it. For $32 they polished all stock size journals and said it spec's out perfect. Much more confident now that I will be building a solid bottom end.
Yea, that's my deal as the journal with too much play was the one that spun a bearing. What chaps my butt is that I payed $150 to a "race" machine shop to turn this crank and they claim the extra clearance doesn't matter, and that if it wasn't OK to cut the rod journals .030 they would not offer...
Fair enough, you are correct that the chilton books suck. If I can't get the correct side play by using a different rod, guess I'll have to fight with the crank grinder. Is there any reason not to weld up this journal and re-cut it? I do have the 7M-GE that I pulled from the car with a BHG and...
Really? I thought that oil pressure was mostly a function of rod bearing clearance, not side play. More info or references would be greatly appreciated.[COLOR="Silver"]
I have just been around and around with two machine shops trying to insure that my re-worked crank and rods have the correct side play. All except the one journal that had spun a bearing check within the spec's of .063 to .0118 (max) as listed in the Chilton manual for this engine, however, the...
If I am correct, the part you are talking about is a noise suppression capacitor and should not affect running. Used to keep noise from the radio. Check for spark at plugs,and fuel pressure.
I prefer a mechanical oil pressure gauge and installing it was not fun. I had to use a short length of pipe into the block in order to place a fitting that I could then get a wrench to. Best done while engine is out of car, lol.
If master cyl is bad, putting hard pressure on pedal and holding it may show the pedal slowly going down (but not always) When engine is running you are getting vacuum to the brake booster which amplifies pedal pressure, so the pedal will seem softer. I agree with keep bleeding. Start with the...
A race machine shop which I'm not real sure about claims that current honing techniques (at least by them) are so much better at matching the type of piston rings being used that they recommend break-in as follows: Run the engine for 10 min at fast idle (1500-2000 rpm), shut down and walk away...
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