Is there any other reason for this timing problem?

[ForcedTorque]

First let me say I'm an idiot, so that will be out of the way, and won't be needed to cloud the thread. I tried to search the technical section on timing, but I got either "no matches found" or matches across the entire forum.

PROBLEM I have timed my motor a few times, and understand what I have to do to get there. I stupidly pulled my CPS without regard to top dead center, and I'm trying to back in properly. This time, I can't get my cam gear timing marks to align with "0" on the crank pulley. With the cams lined up, the crank is about an inch below the scale for the crank pulley. All I have ever read about this leads me to conclude that my crank pulley is bad.

Question Is it possible that there is something else I am doing wrong? I have had the motor running recently, but only with idle issues, so it has not been run hard recently at all.

 

[jetjock]

Don't use the cams as a reference. Place the piston at TDC, check the pulley, and go from there...

 

[mk3-4-me]

Put the crank to 0*. Line up the cam notches, and squeeze the belt over. Its kinda tricky getting it on right but you will get it eventually.

Hope that what your asking.

 

[ForcedTorque]

Don't use the cams as a reference. Place the piston at TDC, check the pulley, and go from there...

Will do JJ...Thanks. But, isn't there a difference between the 2 strokes that I should also pay attention to? I am good enough to follow the advise of trusted guys around here, but full understanding has never been with me. I'm not scared to do much of anything to this motor anymore with the help of you and others.

 

[bluepearl]

Without the timing belt on (cams disconnected), The pistons don't care if their on TDC compression or TDC exhaust.

 

[JStoked]

pull the number one spark plug use your oil dip stick to make sure that your number one piston is at tdc.

 

[jetjock]

What those guys said.

Set #1 @ TDC, check damper for zero (if not at zero determine why), set cams, install belt. CPS per TSRM, warm up engine, short diag block, check MIL for no code 51, set ignition timing. Done...

 

[ForcedTorque]

What those guys said.

Set #1 @ TDC, check damper for zero (if not at zero determine why), set cams, install belt. CPS per TSRM,

Done, and everything lined up first try when done in this order. Still no start. This could be due to a number of things. I'm in the middle of putting the car back to stock. I have to helicoil a thermostat housing bolt, so once I know it will run properly, the CPS will be coming back out. I don't have a good complete set of stock IC pipes. There are a couple of points where there could be some leaking, but not too bad.

Base timing should be right as of now. I know I have fuel, because I still have my Walbro pump, and I can hear the pump and fuel circulating at the motor. I know that a fuel leak can prevent a start, and I smell fuel after attempting start. I don't see any signs of leakage though. What is the proper way to test for fire? If I have fuel, timing, and fire, shouldn't I get it to start? If not, it would probably be due to a leakage of fuel or air. If air, I still would think it would run, but not good, right? If fuel, that will have to be found and fixed.

One last possibility is at the back of the alternator. There is a part I can't name that looks about the size of an M-80 with a wire leading to the post at the top. That wire has been broken off at the base by the crankcase vent tube (known to me as the M. F Hose). I don't know what that thing is, but feel it could be my problem. What is it called, and what does it do? I have 2 alternators in my shed that don't even have it, but I think they are N/A's.

 

[rustfarmer]

If I am correct, the part you are talking about is a noise suppression capacitor and should not affect running. Used to keep noise from the radio. Check for spark at plugs,and fuel pressure.

 

[JStoked]

From my experience try holding the peddle to the floor and crank it till it will start. You still have probs but it should start. also check codes man. if your timing is right and you have spark and fuel it will run maybe like crap but it should run. And yes the resistor on the alternator is def not the prob.