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Ok, point taken. I will re-check the lash and cam "bearing" clearance. Don't mean to be stubborn, but no one has explained how valve lash or cam cap clearance could have suddenly changed in a 5 mile period enough to go from quiet to a rather loud tap?

But why would a just rebuilt engine with perfectly shimmed valves suddenly develop a lash problem? I like the worn out springs together with a sticky valve. Not saying it can't be something else, but it really sounds like a valve and the lash is ok.

More reading reveals some guys are running big block chevy inner valve springs on 7m to save much $ and claim the stock springs are weak. Any thoughts?

I pulled the head today and started checking valve springs, ect. Started with # 5 and although both exhaust seemed ok, one intake valve sticks a bit when slightly opened. It seems to me that the valve springs all are sort of weak so I'm thinking of replacing the entire set. Now for the "rest of...

No valve seats were replaced as far as I know, nor were the springs replaced. Follower cups seem pretty good although some have minor pits on sides in the top 1/3 area. All wear on the cups look the same. using the hammer handle to slightly compress the springs all valves seem to be free. Tap...

Thanks for all the ideas guys. The cam "bearings" surfaces do look a bit scored, but not more than when I put it together. Good idea to mike then and check specs which I will do soon. Also thought wrist pin is possible issue but my experience is that will make a double-tap sound usually. No one...

Less than 3000 miles on rebuilt 7m gte (arp rod bolts, arp head bolts, metal gasket, turbo rebuid, etc. but started to have a top end valve type "tap" and thought it had broken a valve spring. A so-called race shop in Nashville, TN did the head overhaul and other machine work, and I've been...

Got an almost free set of 17x8 front with 235x45 tires and 17x9.5 rear with 255x40's. Due to backspacing it appears I'll need !" spacers on the rear to clear the coils. Whats the best way to use spacers? Longer studs or bolt on spacers or never? (even if the set is almost free)

Does anyone have a list of ECU's by application, or at least what would be correct # for JDM 1987 turbo vs: US 1987 turbo? Also, anyone got the JDM unit for sale or swap? (I will also post in parts for sale/wanted)

The ECU and harness that came with my engine were for an 89 or newer car. My car is an 87 so I bought a turbo USA harness and the ECU was probably USA as well, although I have been unable to find any clear method of identifying ECU's by numbers. I now have 3, the original 87 na/automatic, the...

Your point about pollution is well taken. My problem is I built a JDM engine which came to me without the EGR system and its in the car and runs well (although has not been to a shop with tools to check state of tune). I'm not sure if I can retrofit the old EGR parts from the na engine without...

Interesting discussion. Re-reading post #19 shows a quote supposedly lifted verbatim from the toyo tech manual by Jetjock which states that an inop EGR will cause severe detonation. With all due respect, were these engineers wrong or am I misunderstanding these latest posts?

I'm pretty green at all this, but I thought the ECU reads the O2 sensor to trim fuel mix so why doesn't the ECU "see" the lean condition and compensate? If I must run a JDM ECU where can I get one, or can anyone give details on how to properly identify which I have now and how to modify if needed?

After reading all the posts I must say I'm confused. I am running a JDM 7M GTE engine which came with no EGR, and also converted from slushbox to 5 speed so I purchased a good (mostly) harness and ECU for a turbo but assume it was for a USA car. I don't seem to have any detonation issues but am...

I did replace the squirters and as for the tach, will just running a wire from the tach feed from the diagnostic plug to the na tach allow normal operation or must I change the resistors as described elsewhere? Also, scrounged a speedo drive from a W-58 and thought I would see if it fits and has...

I appreciate all of you putting up with my oil pressure questions. My son has now run the car about 75 miles and pressure is remaining constant reading about 20 psi on the stock gauge at slow cruising rpm (unknown due to na to turbo swap so stock tach doesn't work yet) about 45 mph in 5th gear...

Interesting that I had rod knock and spun bearing with no BHG, but it was a used JDM "less than 50 k" engine so I'll let that one go. However,can't quite stop thinking about the high volume/low pressure idea. Saying that pressure is just resistance to flow seems to me to be an over...

So just finished re-installing my stock oil gauge sender and testing the car. Gauge shows 20 psi cruising at 60 mph in 5th, and a hair less than 5 at hot idle, although if I let it sit at idle for several minuets the gauge slowly drops to almost zero. Wish I could afford the $250 for a real test...

Spoke with someone (Dan?) at Driftmotion late yesterday to ask about what oil pressure gauge they recommend for best reading of low hot idle pressure and he said experience has shown that the stock gauge usually matches the results of expensive aftermarket gauges, although the stock unit is...

Just reworked engine cooler lines so not going thru radiator trans cooler but just thru the tiny stock cooler I have. Changed oil gauge to old known good unit and purge air from copper feed line. Same result. Good pressure while driving (I guess--15 to 20 at about 40 mph in 4th gear) but gauge...