... thats insane. maybe its some kind of secondary line pressure bleed for the accumulators? like you said, to soften the shifts w/o severely changing the load on the front pump by modulating the entire line pressure circuit itself. that way, once the bands engage, the line pressure is already...
lol... gotcha. what if its polycarbonate? like the stuff used in eyeglasses. that stuff is supposed to be UV-resistant and avoid yellowing for at least 10 years... i wish the headlights on my dodge ram were made of that shit.
Defi with the link?! LUCKY!!!!
are those the normal Defi guages or the new individual gimmicks that were recently released?
also, what are the specs on your fuel gauge? im curious to know what resistance range you had to order and if youre still using the stock sending unit.
got any...
man, GREAT articles and such.
i also like the color commentary like "celica-free Supra". im going to use that in the future! what got me was that their cars didnt have cats until 89... thats how the NA was able to break 200hp. thats cool for them. weird that the 89's still had the gay tail...
man, i KNEW someone was gonna ask for proof. all i can tell you is i was there and i held the dyno sheet in my hands with a dumbfounded look stuttering "how... why... what in the... on that Nightmare shitbox?!?! no fucking way..."
your friend should have bought the MKIV... about half the price and the carbon fiber roof wont de-laminate from the skeleton either.
just make sure you hook up and try not to break your rear subframe.
if they want flames, they should just buy an 08 Superduty Ford 6.4L powerstroke... you dont even have to rev it up. itll sit there idling spewing flames.
i think the cutoff for the correct injectors is early 88 model year, or late 87 production date. someone once sent me a set of S4 injectors but had oval connenctors and they were not the correct ones but still had low impedance. IIRC, they were red tops too.
hmm... the shifting didnt seem to be unreasonably harsh for full line pressure but its been so long since ive been in the car. and i dont forsee being in it ever again... since he started banging my exgf behind my back when i thought her and i were reconciling. lol
what do you know about that...
i agree. id LIKE to find a guage that will go to 35psi but most stop at 30psi. but aside from that... you might be able to get some sand paper, like 80 grit, wrap it around a small block and work it in circles on the shroud. that would remove material evenly, it just wouldnt be as fast as...
well, this is all i can find of it still online. i had alot of other pics but the host changed the gallery and alot of my shit is missing; alot of stuff i dont have backups for either.
those are Ford Contour/Cougar fans. the shroud fits almost perfectly on our radiator. it needed a bit of...
the LS2 DOES suck... i dont know of any other factory motor that was performance-oriented in its original design yet cant hold its own compression in the cylinders. LS1 GTO's are better to start with if you plan to mod as they have more power potential than the LS2 GTO's. i pity the foo with an...
the defcon isnt much different than most other non-DDP's. just because it doesnt look right doesnt mean its bad. so far, its the only dyno-proven DP to make a 100rwhp gain. thats why i like it and thats why ill always stick by it. no one has to beleive me but i saw the dyno sheet, i know the guy...
oh wow... sounds semi-complicated. im curious how much TQ the clutch can handle when its locked up. i know guys in the diesel crowd have put down 800rwtq thru a single-disc converter when locked up.
the line pressure solenoid makes alot of sense like that... just a confort thing. however...
oh, gotcha... i see what the deal is.
my greddy guage didnt sit as deep as yours does. youre best bet is to shave the shroud around the guage opening to bring the gauge face closer to the lense. thats the only viable solution i can see... unless you can find an electric guage?
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