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I can get it in there pretty good by tapping it with a hammer. I have to use needle nose pliers but I can get it back out with a bit of force. Im concerned about it leaking.

So I bought an HKS SSQV off of ebay awhile back, never really got to use it much. It came in an authentic HKS box aswell, has HKS on the BOV itself in a couple places so I'm sure that its not a knock off. Anyways, the problem. The little metal Vaccuum "pipe" that comes off the back of the BOV...

I found it amusing. Lol Kind of sad comparing it to hondas tho.

Definitly read it wrong. Ill just stop making suggestions until I do it to mine so I can see exactly what your talking about. Lol. :icon_bigg Wouldnt there be better chemical/method to remove the silver paint?

Im interested in this too. But instead of all the effort it sounds like you went through to get the silver paint off, why not spray paint black over the silver? If Im understanding all this correctly. Lol

There are a few bolts at the back of the block (6 I believe). They are blocked by the two stiffener plates from the bell housing to the block and the flywheel inspection cover. They should all be somewhat visible.

Got it done. I just lifted the engine, then started scraping away with a razor. I got it scrapped the best I could. I then cleaned it with Acetone to remove any oil residue on the pan/block. I then loaded it up with FIPG and bolted her back up. I see a bit of it squishing out all the way around...

So when you say do it with the engine in the car, you mean just clean the pan off while it just sits there with the engine up, not actually take the pan out? Also, with FIPG how good do you need to prep the pan before putting that stuff on? Any good chemicals to clean off old gasket crap or...

Alright so Im in the process of removing my oil pan. The pan had a gasket on it, but some of the bolts were over tightened by the previous owner/builder and cracked the gasket so it leaked a very small amount of oil from the front of the pan. But since the car is parked, figured I might as well...

Woot! Im definitly in.

garage for the winter :( But street when she's up and running. I have her parked away and Im working out all the "kinks" and buying her some new shoes before winter is over. Around 500whp.

In the last 3 years, I have one speeding ticket.. In my truck for doing fifteen over even though the guy beside me was still passing me. Other than that, one stunting ticket and a BS racing ticket Im going to court over. The officers notes said "accelerating faster than the rest of traffic."...

Thats awesome. Good Kill. I raced a z28 camaro last night too. It was a 98 with cams/heads/exhaust and a tune. From a 30mph roll we were about even all the way till fourth. :evil2:

Badass man. To bad I never saw it when I went through kamloops two weeks ago with my new ride.

Sounds good guys. I was planning on going with NGK's. I was just seeing if anyone has had experience with the ZEX.

I was talking to a buddy that was going to run a Zex nitrous kit on his mustang. He recommended zex plugs since they are supposed to be good for turbo car applications and they are copper. Just wondering if anyone has run them since I havent seen anything on here. Thanks

Your welcome. It always works for me. I did it with both my w58 and r154's I had. And I have to argue it isnt a waste. Its supposed to stop movement in the transmission.. And reverse not having a syncro, movement is bad obviously causing the grinding.

My buddy went with tiger japanese, but it was for his honda. It was a good engine and hasnt had any problems. Maybe just luck.

I believe the right torque is 72 or 75. I torqued mine to 72.

Put the transmission into 4th gear, then put it into reverse. You shouldnt get any grind and it should be a hell of alot easier. Works for me anyways :icon_bigg