Search results

Good to know you still have it and its running!

What boost level were you running? I seem to recall you had the lex/550 mod.

Yeah, that's the easy way. But I wanted to keep the original ceiling mount.

Nice! I've been trying to adapt a Gentex auto-dimming mirror to the mk3 but haven't had any luck with the mount. The only solution seems to be gluing it to the windshield as is the current approach used in most new cars.

The posts you refer to for a repair for this issue was documented on the other site by Nick Tippet (piratetip). Its a sticky in MKIII Technical called How To: Fix MK3 Steering Slop - Intermediate Shaft It is indeed a welding job, although that doesn't seem any more scary than a failed rubber...

You wired in the white amplifier box correctly?

I have a Boss Jr that I bought 10 years ago still in the box. Has taken me that long to install the supporting mods, including an IPT automatic and the CT26 has been more than adequate to run 12 psi over those years.

ahh, yeah that makes sense. Makes me worried it might buzz and flap around but at least its attached somewhere.

way back machine... How did you fasten the heat shield down given the Boss Jr does not have the lugs for the heat shield??

That I couldn't say. My experiment only swapped the center bearing.

V joint is a later design that is cheaper. Toyota was on a cost cutting mission for the 89+ update. I replaced my M center bearing with a V center bearing and have no issues. V bearing was quite a bit cheaper.

That makes sense. With the right metrology and models it should be possible to put it together right the first time. My diff is perfect. No complaints, and quiet too.

Its truly an art to put these together. No way the factory could spend this much time, I wonder if they had some advanced measurement tools to help them.

No reason except time and effort :) Its all in assembler so changing things is not easy, but certainly possible. It is my plan for some time to do it. Defeating fuel cut is trivial, but if you max out the load variable then the injector duration will hit a hard stop while air flow continues to...

Is ther some insulation stock, or just the roof liner

Which U-joint is being discussed here? And what rubber seal was allowing water to leak in ?

The sensors are the same, but the housing is different.

None. My shifts are clunk free but I have the OEM subframe bushings.

Code 31 is your issue. With the AFM dead its just guessing at fuel. You might want to test the wiring continuity from ECU to the sensor. That part of the loom gets baked by the exhaust.

Update? Where's Abe??