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Your circuit board traces have been butchered so getting it back to factory will take some effort. Deleting the jumpers is the first step. Then patching over the trace cuts and other damage the next step. Sounds like you are making progress. Since the traces are big, its pretty easy to figure...

Unsolder the red wire and discard it. You will need to solder a patch across the gap in the trace where it was attached. Or better get a new trace.

Its not dimming because the ground side of the illumination bulb is directly connected to ground which is the equivalent of full brightness. Remove the grounded jumper and reconnect the ground side to the trace I called "dim".

The movable sleeves grab the metal inside cylinder of the shock bushing. I imagine if you torque them with the wheels off the ground there will be some bias on the bushing with wheels on the ground. But he movement is small. Its not like a control arm where you can rip out the bushing if you...

The mod to the non-dimming lamps is because the dim circuit has been replaced with a direct ground. That keeps the lights at full brightness. This one shows it clearly. Delete the jumper to ground and repair the trace as shown in red if you want dimming.

Excellent. It seemed likely that a DRL mod would target that relay.

This is not the Canadian wiring diagram but it won't be far off. Try removing integration relay #2 and see if that shuts everything off. It should.

There are a couple of beta testers out there using the ECU. What that pointed out was that we were not ready for this to be a product yet. I've been working on improving the documentation and software delivery but still need to implement a solution to get past the current load variable maxing...

brake by wire no, but actuating the brakes electronically yes. That is how Tesla implements the "hold" stopping mode.

The V-joint center bearing fits the M-joint driveshafts just fine and is substantially cheaper. Toyota 37230-24061 Bearing Assembly, Center Support

Two valve stems allows you to purge air and replace with nitrogen. I've also heard that for track wheels there is a speed advantage for filling a tire with two stems.

Replaced my old bosch 110 recirculating valve with this adjustable RKX valve. The old valve was getting noisy. I have some concerns about the long term reliability of the RKX, since it is a non-diaphragm design, but time will tell.

Sometimes the torques are listed in the service specs section, and sometimes in the instructions, and sometimes they're just missing. I'm always searching for them. Starter torque is listed here. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=ST&P=12

A genuine Walbro GSS34x (255lph) has a check valve, so says the internet! I would clamp the return line shut and double check it won't hold pressure before going to the trouble of putting in that check valve. The FPR could be leaking, or an injector.

Here's the empera armrest and e-brake covers. You could try sending him a PM to see if he is still making them. Other wise, the black option above looks good.

Empera is the guy who made them. But the link to his sell thread is broken. Not sure why. http://www.supramania.com/forums/members/87-empera

I did mine a while back. There was a guy on this site that was doing them. I'll look him up.

Awesome progress. Now you are worrying about stopping!!

Did you fix that pinched pipe too?

If it test good on the bench then yes. The coil has 12V to one side all the time with ignition on (black red wire). The ECU grounds the other side of the coil to actuate it (red blue wire). If the red-blue wire is getting shorted somewhere then the VSV will be on all the time. It should get...