writeup: MAFT Pro install for 7M-GE

[CRE]

Speed/Density Settings and Configuration for an N/A 7M-GE

I have been running S/D for a week now. Below are most of the settings I'm using. The tuning info is included for reference ONLY, it is highly unlikely that those settings will match your engine's needs! VERIFY ALL YOUR SETTINGS!!!


Before you go plugging in the your MAFT Pro and try changing the settings make sure you are running at LEAST version 4.84 on the MAFT Pro. At this moment only the version of 4.84 which is linked to in one of the first posts of this thread has the required modifications for our Fuel Cutout switch. It is HIGHLY recommended that you use only versions of the MAFT Pro software that is modified to work with our ECU... failure to do so will render the FC switch inoperable and in the event of an accident could prove VERY hazardous! I will post when the newest version (4.89) is available with that modification.

The 7M-GE versions of the MAFT Pro software are NOT for use with a 7M-GTE! At best it won't run.

Below is a list of the various settings available in the MAFT Pro. I highly recommend you take some time to familiarize yourself with all of the sections, their selections and their purpose. Some of the settings you will see listed here are only found in versions of the MAFT Pro's software that is newer than 4.84.

These settings are not for a turboed 7M-GE. These are what I'm running on my N/A.

Menus:
CFG Settings
System Setup
Boost Control
AFR Tracking
Air Temp
Aux Trig
Tune High Load
Tune Mid Load
Tune Low Load
Tune Response
SensorMonitor
Spark WOT
Spark Aux
PT Tracking


Verify that all the settings listed here are appropriate for your setup.

CFG Settings

1) Vehicle Select ----- "Mode: 0"
2) # of Cyl. ---------- "6"
3) Displacement ------ "2.96 Litres"
4) Airfl Mode --------- "0 - Speed Density (with temp compensation)"
5) MAP Source ------- "0 - GM 3 bar sensor".
6) Load Srce (Dens Srce) - "0 - Use MAP"
7) Baro Mode -------- "Read @ Key-on"
8) F-Out Mode ------- "0 - Fuel Pump Ctrl" ---Do NOT set this to #4 "Supra MK-III"
9) V-Out1 Mode ------ "17 - Toyota VAF"
10) V-Out2 Mode ----- "0 - Use setpoint"
11) AFR Source ------- "1 - Innovate LC1"
12) F-In Mode -------- "3.5" MAF LS1" I still have my MAF connected to the system for comparative purposes.
13) Aux1 Mode -------- "0 - Aux trig OFF" ---Do NOT set this to #28 "Toyota VAF"
14) FlowErr Mode ----- "1 - SD / MAF" Again, this is set this way because I'm using a MAF for reference in my tuning.

Please not that there are settings available for #8 and #13 which may seem the natural choice, they are not. Use the settings specified unless you're sure your specific install requires something else.

System Setup

1) Main Scale ------ "0.0"
2) V-Out1 Set ----- "2.500"
3) V-Out2 Set ----- "3.600"
4) Afterstart ------- "2.0"
5) Lo Load Pt ------ "35.1" See post #45 in this thread for suggestions on calculating your load levels.
6) Mid Load Pt ----- "54.6"
7) Hi Load Pt ------ "70.2"
8) F Out Max ------ "0"
9) Tm Base -------- "0.0"
10) Tm Correct ----- "1.27"
11) AF TrDelay ----- "0.0"
12) FE Smooth ----- "40"
13) Use VE Table # - "2 - Use VE Table #2"
14) SpkBase -------- "15.0"

Boost Control

TPS Spool ----- "4.900"

AFR Tracking

Min TPS ------- "2.500"
Min RPM ------- "2400"
Min Load ------- "65.0"
Lean Lim% ----- "12.0"
Rich Lim% ------ "20.0"
Gain ------------ "6.0"
AFR 2000R ------ "13.0"
AFR 3000R ------ "13.0"
AFR 4000R ------ "13.0"
AFR 5000R ------ "13.0"
AFR 6000R ------ "13.0"
AFR 7000R ------ "13.0"
AFR 8000R ------ "13.0"
Aux% ----------- "0.0"

Tune Response
***NOTE: Verify ALL your settings!

TPS Enrich ----- "0.50"
TPS Decay ----- "0.70"
TB Size -------- "6"
TPS MAP Max -- "65.0"
MAP Enrich ----- "0.10"
Bst Enrich ------ "0.00"
MAP TPS Min --- "0.580"
MAP RPM Min --- "928"
MAF Lim TPS --- "0.000"
MAF Limit ------ "0.0"
MAF /Krpm ----- "0.0"
Lim MinRPM ----- "0.0"
Lim Time ------- "0.0"

PT Tracking
***It is NOT recommended that you use this function until your tune is close to finished.

Idle TPS ----- "0.560"
Idle RPM ----- "928"
Idle A/F ------ "15.1"
Cruise TPS --- "2.500"
Cruise RPM --- "4000"
Cruise Load -- "65.0"
Cruise A/F --- "15.0"
Lean Load --- "52.0"
Lead Delay -- "2.5"
Lean A/F ---- "15.9"
Gain --------- "6.0"
Enabl. Dly ---- "0"


NOTES: I am not at sea level! My loads will be lower than yours. See post #45 in this thread for suggestions on calculating your load levels. You will want to adjust all "load" settings accordingly.

Do not just blindly copy these settings, these settings are specific to my altitude and engine.

You will note that my Lean Load is set lower than my Cruise Load. This is because if I am cruising and happen to be in a slightly hilly area my engine's load will shift beyond my Mid Load levels. While the level I have set should be safe for running at an AFR of 15, I'd rather not risk running an AFR leaner than that beyond my Mid Load level.

 

[CRE]

MAFT Pro software for 7M-GE.

The following versions of the MAFT Pro software have special modifications for the 7M-GE ONLY!!! 7M-GE guys need to run one of these versions other MAFT Pro users need to use releases available at the Full Throttle web site.

MAFT Pro v4.84 for 7M-GE
MAFT Pro v4.89 for 7M-GE

For additional notes and/or files check here.


If you are unsure what version of software you need feel free to send me a PM. Please do NOT post those questions here. For most N/A owners you will want the modified version linked to above.

 

[CRE]

V-out1's value in the Settings menu is overridden when you select "17-MAF: Toyota VAF (Supra MKIII)" for V-Out1 in the Config menu.

For satisfying the ECU that it is getting a valid signal from the THA sensor you have two options (as I understand it):
adding the wiring for the THA signal (the grey wire (pin #7) from the MAFT Pro's 10 pin connector runs to it) and setting the voltage to about 2.5v, or adding a 2.2K Ohm resistor running from VC to THA, or both. The ECU looks for a voltage signal from THA that's between .1v and 5v do determine the air temp and adjust fuel accordingly. If either the resistor is added after tuning or the voltage level for V-Out2 is changed at some point the ECU may adjust the amount of fuel it's cycling the injectors for and this could result in a shift in your tune.

My problem was that I recently started throwing a code 24 (THA), so either the resistor I had in there burned up or my connection wasn't secure. I had previously verified that it was working, so I may have messed it up when I was wiring my MAP and IAT harnesses.

 

[CRE]

More changes/corrections to the online guide/worksheet available here.

PM me with questions, corrections or comments. Do not post them here.

 

[CRE]

An additional note on error codes. Some members have talked about running the MAFT Pro off the cigarette lighter circuit so that the MAFT Pro is powered up before the ECU. The Cig. circuit is interrupted when the car is cranked though which actually causes more error codes than you get when powering the MAFT Pro from the same source as the ECU.

 

[Tire Shredder]

CRE, have you had a chance to attempt tuning yet? would love to hear how well the 7mge computer takes to tuning, and if you were able to get the maft pro to cooperate

 

[CRE]

I've been trying to get my car tuned as quickly as possible. Didn't make much progress until the past couple days though as the battery in my laptop had crapped out and using a cig. lighter adapter caused issues with the wideband.

I haven't experienced any real issues. There have been a few spots where I think I may have been fighting with the fuel pump relay/resistor although it hasn't shown back up. I think I can tell when the ACIS has switched from one mode to the other and it seems that the level I have set for my mids is right about that that level where the load is concerned, so no issues, the expected curve just changes a little more than expected.

Overall, I'm very pleased with how my car is running and how it feels. I have still got my LS-1 MAF in the intake although it's no longer connected... I just need to make some time to get a piece of pipe to replace it with so I can remove that restriction.

 

[Tire Shredder]

excellent. so, from a tuning point of view, would you say it is possible to get a decen tune with one of these units? does the ge ecu which uses a flapper respond in a similar way to a GE ecu that uses vortex?

just wondering if it was something weird like GE maps were predetermined and the it wouldn't be possible to tune because the flapper opens up completley before higher rpms.

 

[CRE]

I was wondering how well the ECU would respond to a more accurate metering system as well. I'm sure that a large part of the improved responsiveness I've seen with both the GM MAF and SD is due to the ECU not only getting far more accurate air flow information but also due to the fact that the signals aren't as erroneously dynamic as the signal you get from a potentiometer. The ECU responds to all my entered corrections. The only two things that had me actually worried were the ACIS and fuel pump resistor. I still may remove the relay and resistor, but the ACIS hasn't presented much of a challenge.

I've noticed a couple times where it appears that my tune is off, running rich, but then the next time i drive it's back where I had set it. Yesterday and once before I've thrown a code 8 on my LC-1. The sensor had overheated and the LC-1 couldn't accurately control it. I've been using the stock sensor location and it's just too close to the head. At some point this week I'll need to have a bung welded in further down in the exhaust. So, after this I do not in anyway recommend using the stock O2 sensor's location... especially if you're not constantly checking your AFR readings.

 

[7M-GEJOSH]

Meant to PM that Sorry,

 

[CRE]

Well, I'm pretty much finished with my tuning. I need to tweak the tip-in just a little and I may play with the temperature maps a little as I do tend to run a touch richer than I want when it's cold out.

Overall I'm quite pleased with how my car is handling. The responsiveness is great despite the fact that my intake's still being choked by the 3.5" GM MAF... no I haven't yet made time to pull it.

How much of an improvement this makes over stock I could only speculate. The gains are, of course, nothing like adding a turbo or otherwise increasing your engine's effective displacement.

Eventually, I will get the car dynoed but I've got to save my money for more important things right now.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Well, I'm pretty much finished with my tuning. I need to tweak the tip-in just a little and I may play with the temperature maps a little as I do tend to run a touch richer than I want when it's cold out.

Overall I'm quite pleased with how my car is handling. The responsiveness is great despite the fact that my intake's still being choked by the 3.5" GM MAF... no I haven't yet made time to pull it.

How much of an improvement this makes over stock I could only speculate. The gains are, of course, nothing like adding a turbo or otherwise increasing your engine's effective displacement.

Eventually, I will get the car dynoed but I've got to save my money for more important things right now.

Did you use a laptop to get the tuning done? If so any tips you can pass on CRE? I've been trying to do mine still by myself and I'm starting to look like Marty Feldman:biglaugh: Remember him, one eye looked one way and one the other way. I don't recomend this:3d_frown:
When you say "tip in". What are you refering to?
I'm getting a little closer with mine and I agree with you as far as better response. Will temp maps help with flucuations due to changes in the weather some?
Thanks for the excellent help with getting mine up and running. AJ

 

[CRE]

Did you use a laptop to get the tuning done? If so any tips you can pass on CRE? I've been trying to do mine still by myself and I'm starting to look like Marty Feldman:biglaugh: Remember him, one eye looked one way and one the other way. I don't recomend this:3d_frown:

Yes, I used a laptop. Without one you're liable to miss a lot of info.

If you do not own a laptop the only other option (still nothing I recommend, especially if you're new to the system) would be tuning from the passenger seat while the vehicle is being driver by a competent driver. I don't really recommend this though... there's a lot you could miss.

When you say "tip in". What are you refering to?

Basically, I'm referring to how the system responds when you just start in on the throttle. Like you, I'm still learning all of this. So, I may be wrong on this one.

At any rate, issues such as running lean for a split second or a stumble when you first step on the gas can be difficult to correct without the help of a log to review.

I'm getting a little closer with mine and I agree with you as far as better response.

When compared to how the stock AFM measures air flow I don't think there's another system out there that wouldn't provide better responsiveness and more accurate fuel control. I think what most people want to know is if you'll gain power from it. From my experience I would have to say that there are "some" gains, but the difference in responsiveness is massive.

Perhaps one of the local members who've driven my car will post their impressions (HINT).

Will temp maps help with flucuations due to changes in the weather some?

I suspect the shifts you're referring to are more due to humidity. Temperature may be a contributing factor though. Don't worry, if I find anything I'll post about it.

Thanks for the excellent help with getting mine up and running. AJ

No sweat, I've been waiting for someone else to install this so we could compare notes.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Basically, I'm referring to how the system responds when you just start in on the throttle. Like you, I'm still learning all of this. So, I may be wrong on this one.

At any rate, issues such as running lean for a split second or a stumble when you first step on the gas can be difficult to correct without the help of a log to review.

Not noticing any issues with lean or rich when I step on the throttle. Wait I got to uncross my eyes. Got to get me a laptop:aigo:
Keep us posted and thanks again for all your hard work.

 

[CRE]

Well, if you're not having any richness or leaning out when you first step on the throttle, manifold pressure rises, or when you let off the throttle then you've been spared some head ache. I think it's more likely that you're just not seeing it in the Sensor Monitor page. It generally only happens for a split second.

 

[Tire Shredder]

CRE, would you go map sensor from the get-go if you had the option to do it again?

most of the complaints I see regarding the maft-pro is tuning it can be confusing. from my understanding, you've figured it out for the most part and can say that the 7mge ecu responds well to it, similar to the 7mgte?

 

[CRE]

If I had to do it again..... well, I better not go there.


Seriously, if I had to do it again I may have waited longer for someone else to figure out the bugs first.

As for whether or not I would go with S/D from the start, I would have to say it depends on whether or not you've got a wideband or will be installing one at the same time. If you don't, forget it. While the MAF will be close enough there are too many variables which need attention and tweaking for you to even consider getting away with S/D without the wideband.

Personally, if I had it all to do over again, I would have gone the same route, except that I would have added the wideband a while before switching to S/D. If you're asking if I would go MAF first with future installs, well that would depend on what else was planned for the car. I don't think there's a big difference between MAFT and S/D for the N/A... You loose a little restriction, but I suspect my results would be about the same with my old GM MAF had I taken the time to tune with it. I still believe that using the MAFT Pro with a 3" GM MAF is the better choice for an N/A that's either a DD or not going to be turbocharged.

Tuning a N/A vehicle is a bit different than tuning a turbo vehicle. It can be harder to spot what changes have occured after adjusting certain settings due to the smaller scale. I've installed and setup the MAFT Pro on both the 7M-GTE and my 7M-GE, there is a difference, but it's more to do with how you approach the setup and tuning. I would have to say that overall the 7M-GE is the more finicky of the two.

I think the two biggest contributing factors when people have issues with the MAFT Pro are: 1) Old wiring 2) Incomplete and difficult to read documentation (I'm working on this).

 

[Illusive MA70]

I am fairly new...very new to electrical Mods on the supra NA. My question is which LS1 MAF did you use? I know the LS1 motors came in many GM vehicles as well as year spread. Which would be the one to use?

 

[CRE]

I was using the 3.5" MAF. It was used in a few vehicles equipped with the LS-1 but I don't recall any specific models. However, as I mentioned elsewhere in this thread, I recommend using a 3" MAF if you're not going to be tuning the system.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

I was using the 3.5" MAF. It was used in a few vehicles equipped with the LS-1 but I don't recall any specific models. However, as I mentioned elsewhere in this thread, I recommend using a 3" MAF if you're not going to be tuning the system.

If you use the 3" MAF is it basically a plug and play? Or is there still some tuning involved?