writeup: MAFT Pro install for 7M-GE

[CRE]

EDIT: Please post ALL questions, comments and problems HERE.

I'm going to post a clean thread with all the info needed to install and setup the MAFT Pro using a LS-1 3.5" MAF with 7M-GE electronics. The LS-1 MAF is more than large enough to feed a N/A without any noticeable restriction. I may in the future post info on setting up for speed density, but I really don't see the need, even on a N/A-T.

This will take a couple posts to get it all recorded, so please wait until I am finished before replying.

Parts needed:
1) 2) 3) 4)

1) MAFT Pro
2) LS-1 3.5" MAF
3) 6' MAF extension harness
4) Intake piping, two 2.75" couplers, two 3.5" to 2.75" reducers. The kit I used was a "96-00 Honda Civic CX/DX/LX Cold Intake System 97 98 R".

Wiring:

 

[CRE]

If you have any questions about the Fuel Pump Relay (FC):

EDIT: 6/19/2008 NEW information added!

Okay, here's how to make a simple plug in module for the THA signal supply and FC signal connector for use with the MAFT Pro and the stock harness connection for the VAF. Using this you DO NOT USE the MAFT Pro'S V-out2 to feed the ECU a THA signal. If you have that line connected, disconnect it before adding this module!

You use two resistors of the same value. Ideally, you want to use two 1.2KΩ resistors.

The connectors used here were sourced from two different Toyotas of similar vintage to our MKIII's. As long as the connector physically fits it'll do as the connector is all you need.

When you get the VAF home you want to unscrew the connector and rip the little bugged out... don't worry about damaging the circuit of the donor. Now cut down all the internal lines which previously connected to the VAF's innards.

See below for assembly details:








Please post questions in the Q&A thread located HERE.

/EDIT


Information on settings to follow...

 

[CRE]

Before you go plugging in the your MAFT Pro and try changing the setting make sure you are running at LEAST version 4.84 on the MAFT Pro.

Below is a list of the various setting available in the MAFT Pro. While the only changes you need to make for the initial install are all located in the "CFG Settings" menu, I highly recommend you take some time to familiarize yourself with the others and thier purpose.

Menus:
CFG Settings
System Setup
Boost Control
AFR Tracking
Air Temp
Aux Trig
Tune High Load
Tune Mid Load
Tune Low Load
Tune Response
SensorMonitor
Spark WOT
Spark Aux
PT Tracking


The only menu you need to worry about making changes in is the "CFG Settings" menu. These are the base settings for running the MAFT Pro with the LS-1 3.5" MAF. If you're using a different MAF you'll need to change #12 (F-In Mode) to the appropriate selection.

1) Vehicle Select - Mode: 0
2) # of Cyl. - 6
3) Displacement - 3.00 Litres
4) Airfl Mode - MAF Translator
5) MAP Source - Use MAF/RPM
6) Load Srce (Dens Srce) - Use MAF/RPM
7) Baro Mode - Sealevel
8) F-Out Mode - (0) Fuel Pump Ctrl ---Do NOT set this to #4 "Supra MK-III"
9) V-Out1 Mode - (17) Toyota VAF
10) V-Out2 Mode - (0) Use setpoint
11) AFR Source - (0) None
12) F-In Mode - (2) 3.5" MAF LS1
13) Aux1 Mode - (0) Aux trig OFF ---Do NOT set this to #28 "Toyota VAF"
14) FlowErr Mode - (0) SD / MAF

Please not that there are settings available for #8 and #13 which may seem the natural choice, they are not. Use the settings specified unless you're sure

your specific install requires something else.


See HERE for updated info on preventing error codes!

[strike]There are two engine diagnostic codes which relate to the AFM which you will recieve now that it's been removed. NEITHER of these is a critical error, they will not change how the vehicle operates (no pulled timing). These are 24 and 31. Code 24 is remedied easily enough by placing a 2.2KΩ resistor across lines 5(E2) and 7(THA) of the AFM harness or you can add it to the ECU's harness under the dash if you're looking to completely remove the old AFM harness.

Code 31 isn't too bad, but it may be a bit too difficult for those of you with only a little electronic knowledge. At this point I'm quite sure the code 31 is generated for much the same reason as code 24 is generated on both N/As and Turbos running MAFT Pro. When the ignition is turned on the MAFT Pro doesn't fully boot up before the ECU is already expecting a signal from numerous sensors... well, we've just removed them. The 2.2KΩ resistor supplies a base level resistence on the THA line so the ECU will just pass it over and all is well. However, at the same time the ECU is looking for a base voltage on VS. I'm quite sure that adding a small circuit which is turned on with the ignition in order to provide the base of .1v will alleviate this false code as well. I'm not going to speculate on this one any further. Once I have a chance to verify the cause and means to provide a simple solution I will add it to this thread.



Lastly, if you're not mounting the MAFT Pro out in the open, but instead keeping it in the center console or your glovebox, I HIGHLY recommend you switch to the SensorMonitor menu. This way any accidental key depressions will not change critical settings.[/strike]

See HERE for updated info on preventing error codes!

 

[CRE]

This is a repost of another post I made in one of the other (now insanely long) MAFT Pro threads. This may be handy for some of you who want to sit down indoors and go through all the menus and settings.

----------------------

Just wanted to let those of you without a laptop know that you can cut down the motherboard connector from an old ATX power supply to make a spare connector to power your Maft Pro with when you need to update it.

This makes it a bit easier to update your software with your desktop computer, and also gives you a boost harness connector (although without the latching clip it may be inadviseable).

I think this is self explanatory enough. The one thing to note is that you do need to cut off the latching clip from the connector.

 

[CRE]

Thanks Ma70.Ent!

There were a number of bumps on the way. The info wasn't all out there as for how to set it up, 4.65 did not actually have all the additions needed to run on a N/A, and I had to work out some of the wiring with Bob and Dr. Jonez that wasn't documented (or in the case of the Fuel Pump Relay, nonexistant).

For those who are wondering, I do plan on implementing timing control. Apparently it's a bit different for us than the setup for the turbo guys. I will add the info to this thread when I get there.

 

[Tire Shredder]

so what are your thoughts now that you have it installed and running? How did it effect your lowly N/A 7m?

Thanks for any driving impression you can give,

Steve

 

[CRE]

I was actually quite surprised by the difference. I really didn't know what to expect. The stock AFM is restrictive not only because of the "flapper" but also the outlet size. With the 3.5" MAF feeding a 2.75" intake the restriction is almost a mute point.... at least on an N/A.

It's been a while since I switched out my original AFM which ran great... it died on me and I've been running one I got from a local member (Thanks Sl1dewaysSupra!!! for helping me out in a time of dire need). Anyway the one I swapped in seemed a bit sluggish and had been tinkered with before, so I don't know for sure if it was running at 100%.

With those things in mind, my new setup seems to run stronger than I recall with my old AFM and much stronger than with the second AFM. The biggest difference is in the responsiveness, it's HUGE. At some points it almost feels like I'm running a 4.3 diff again (I switched to a 3.91 for mileage). For the most part when I step on it, it goes, no 1-2 seconds of lag at all.

There are a few spots where things seem kinda weak but I think I just need a minor tune to clear those up. Do keep in mind that I've done NO tuning what so ever yet. I still need to pickup a WB.

Overall, I'm VERY happy with it!

I should also mention, I'm running a 2.5" turbo catback with no resonator or muffler.... the muffler got ripped off during the f$#%ing blizzard. I've been taking things somewhat easy due to the noise and an oil leak I've got to fix.

 

[PHILLYSUPRA]

CRE: thanks. ive been following both threads silently for a while now. i do have a question though. i know you said that you might switch to speed density someday. but would it have been easier to just go straight to spdDen. now that you figured out how to jumper the afm signal the ecu was looking for? i think spdDen is what all the NA guys are waiting for, for some reason.
again thanks, the farthest i got was just trying to find the NA pinouts.

 

[CRE]

CRE: thanks. ive been following both threads silently for a while now. i do have a question though. i know you said that you might switch to speed density someday. but would it have been easier to just go straight to spdDen. now that you figured out how to jumper the afm signal the ecu was looking for? i think spdDen is what all the NA guys are waiting for, for some reason.
again thanks, the farthest i got was just trying to find the NA pinouts.

Hey, thanks for the interest.

My reasoning for considering switching to speed density is as follows: 1) a MAP sensor is required for boost control and I do still plan on eventually going N/A-T; 2) I'm also considering it just for the sake of those out there who would rather go that route... if I do all the info will be added here.

As I've said before, I don't think that going MAP over a huge MAF really offers much advantage. There are alot more restrictions N/As need to overcome than the extremely minor restriction a 3.5" MAF might impose. ***Keep in mind though, my number one reason for starting with a GM MAF was the lack of tweaking needed to get the car running reliably, my car is my DD after all.

Through working this out I could see why some potential N/A users ended up backing out. Not everything was ready to go with the release of 4.65 and some of the wiring was a little confusing without the assistance of TurboBob and Dr. Jonez.

Generally, I'm looking to learn this system and provide enough info to make it easy for other N/A owners. I see tons of potential in this system for both tuned N/As and for those hoping to add a turbo to their setup.

 

[935motorsports]

Very fun.

Does the MAFT allow calibration to other MAFs? I was using the Toyota MAF on my old split sec maf translator. It allowed a 3" connection, and since it was a toyota part, it looked factory. Also, the integrated air temp sensor was a HUGE plus. The 3.5" MAF doesn't seem to offer any advantage other then being difficult to mate to the 3" piping.


I was considering MAP as well, since I thought as you did, I would probably go Turbo on it, and it would make the transition easy. Also, MAP sensor on an NA would be highly cool.

If you could calibrate the MAP, then you could use a stock MK3 boost sensor, which is basically free, another bonus.

 

[CRE]

AFAIK, the current MAFT Pro software doesn't support a Toyota MAF... unless you're referring to the GTE's AFM. The GTE's AFM should be doable.

I seriously believe that MAP on an N/A is overkill. Hell even for an N/A-T the LS-1 MAF is overkill. I wasn't out for the WOW factor, just getting things hooked up and running reliably ASAP. I still may do a MAP setup (if no one else does it) if for no other reason than to satisfy all the PM's and posts asking about setting it up on a GE. Regardless of whether someone else does it or if I end up doing it, if I see it done and running I'll do my best to get a full, easy to follow writeup posted.

 

[supramacist]

I hate to ask, but what is the estimated cost of all of this noise?
Because after reading I have been concidering it along with an ac delete.
Probably a rear seat delete as well.

 

[CRE]

Well, it wasn't cheap. I did get the MAFT Pro while it was either on sale or before a price increase... can't recall which, just that I did get it for less than it runs now.

But, it's all pretty easy to add up.
MAFT Pro - $399.99
LS-1 3.5" MAF - $79.99 (or, you could probably pickup a used one from a yard for around $20-$30)
MAF harness extension - $17.99 (or get the MAF side plug at a yard and make your own)
Intake piping and reducers - ~$50

Total not including shipping $550... I don't think I spent more than $25 on shipping everything though, it is possible though some parts I bought a while ago.

As noted above, there are a few things you can do to reduce costs.

 

[935motorsports]

I mean the Toyota 2JZGTE MAF. It has the same output as a GM type MAF. My split second unit was for a ford MAF but I recalibrated it for a Toyota MAF. It was win win, since I got it for $50 shipped, and has a stock air temp sensor inside. This way it was 3" in and out, so no funky couplers.

If the MAFT pro would work with it, it seems like it would be a cool alternative.

 

[CRE]

I gotcha.

I don't see why a 2JZ-GTE MAF wouldn't work... but what do they cost? I like the though of it looking more stock. The Ford MAF sounds like an alternative with promise too.

I love how versatile this little black box is!

 

[chris89]

Does going to 2.75" diameter piping from 3" make any difference? I know that you want the diameter of the pipe, the same as the diameter of the throttle body, so going from 3" to 2.75" might actually benefit from a small gain... More vortex and higher velocity, rather than less vortex, less velocity and more Volume of Air... Vortex and velocity adds torque and high rpm flow rather than high volume of air.

 

[CRE]

There's so much more to designing an optimal intake system than you're covering with all these posts about hacking the ACIS and which size intake you're planning on running.

First off, my intake piping is only *slightly* larger than 2.75", it's about 2.8".

On a system using a stock AFM (which I assume your car is) greater volume after the AFM will serve up some more responsiveness... it acts as a buffer while the AFM's flapper is still opening. Yes, the best way to execute this would be with a nice long taper down to the TB's inlet size, not a sudden reduction via a silicone coupler.

Additionally, while I understand what you're getting at here you seem to be forgetting that the dynamics of the airflow shift drastically the minute it hits the TB and from there on. Generate too much of a vortex and the turbulence created by the throttle plate will actually make things worse, creating a very large loss in velocity and inconsistent volume (it gets worse the wider the throttle plate is open).

This thread isn't intended to address the various aspects of dynamic airflow.

 

[chris89]

That's very interesting. So what do u mean about the vortex? I had a question, if a civic had a 2.5" cold air intake and the throttle body is about 2.5" and it ran down to the front wheel well, why would it seem that a 3" short ram is much more responsive and seems to generate better torque overall?

 

[darrow]

Are you still thinking about going the speed density route? What would it take to get from where you are now to speed density? Would it be the same as a GTE set up or are there different things to consider?

I have searched on this site and I can't find anyone who has done SD on a N/A.

Thanks

 

[CRE]

To the best of my knowledge there's still no one else running the MAFT Pro on the 7M-GE TCCS.

I am still planning on setting up for speed density, but it's going to be a little while. Too many projects going on right now and I'd prefer to find a MAP sensor at a salvage yard ($5 versus $70). IIRC, there are only about 5 wires that are different but a fair number of settings will need to be changed.