Williams Winter, Spring and into Summer NA-t Build :)

shaeff

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will, trust me- i know. ;) you think my 22re powered pickup is fast by any means with those 31's on it? heh...

when i'm done with your car, i fully expect mine to be drivable by the end of september. (not done, just drivable)

-shaeff
 

Isphius

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May 30, 2006
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dont hate on the autos!! lol. But congrats on figuring everything out finally...Ive been watching this build thread since march and its just an ongoing suspense story. Its great!
 

s383mmber1

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shaeff said:
^ great for you, headache for will and i! haha

-shaeff

:rofl: So do we have an "estimated" time of me possibly getting my car back!? :icon_razz

I jsut want to look at her! You dont miss something till your without it for a week!
 

shaeff

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i'm hoping that my bro and i can tow it back down on sunday morning if that's cool with you. i know he mentioned that he was free sunday when i asked him, plus, this will give me a chance to wire a few things to my liking. ;)

-shaeff
 

s383mmber1

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shaeff said:
i'm hoping that my bro and i can tow it back down on sunday morning if that's cool with you. i know he mentioned that he was free sunday when i asked him, plus, this will give me a chance to wire a few things to my liking. ;)

-shaeff

:love: :love: :love:
 

Isphius

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shaeff, or anyone else, you should watch this show called the pickup artist on VH1, there is a guy, his name is J-dog or something, I swear he could be your older brother, he looks just like you!! Oh and goodluck getting that shit fixed! im not even sure whats wrong now, aside from the single knock sensor adapter thingy your gona make, i told will about that a while ago, didnt think it would make it run worse tho!(if thats what you were saying about it)
 

shaeff

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haha, i'll have to catch that. :)

the code 52 (ks circuit) will cause the TCCS to retard the timing, and enrich the fuel mixture in an effort to reduce the chance of detonation/pre-ignition.

basically, it'll make the car run like a bag of crap when under any decent amount of throttle. drivabilty will suffer a bit, and there will be a complete lack of power.

-shaeff
 

Isphius

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well that sucks!!! I thought it would only do that if it picked up knock not just no signal. But that does make perfect sense. Stupid fuel injection!! Edit - Just after i posted this i went out to my camaro and saw the freakin rearview mirror fall off. What are the chances!!!
 

shaeff

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1) CODE 52 is an interruption in the Knock Sensor Circuit. it has nothing to do with actual knock. it's an electrical problem ONLY. :)

2) that's REALLY weird! haha

-shaeff
 

Isphius

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yeah i figured that, i was just saying i didnt think the knock sensor would cause any trouble unless it actually picked up a knock, not just from being unplugged. I cant find any good info on my camaros 2.8 MPFI system so i can figure it out. its been running rich and is suffering power wise. wont even rev past 4500 before it shifts, and its peak power is supposed to be at 5000
 

shaeff

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9 times out of 10, you won't know the knock sensors are working. ;) they're nearly invisible unless you really know what you're looking for!

UPDATE: Will, i just got done with the custom KS rewire harness with single input, dual output, soldered/sealed up the temp gauge wire on the T-stat housing, and re-wired the o2 sensor (the broken wire). i de-pinned the connector, and soldered a new wire on for ya.

the CEL is no longer illuminated, and the only code present is for the HAC sensor. :) (which your wires are cut off, and you don't have the sensor- but it won't affect you unless you drive up in the mountains)

the car drives really nice! i hit about 5psi quickly just to make sure all was well, and it pulls nice and strong. *don't boost on that fuel pump though! you're asking for disaster if you do!*

i have about an hour left to work on it- i might wire up your SAFC if i get a chance.

so, the car is pretty much done.

oh yeah, you need to go to toyota and get the copper crush washers for your powersteering pump. all your fluid leaked out on my driveway. now it's all stained. :(

here's the P/N for it: 44327-12010
44327A in this diagram- http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=4503&P=1

-shaeff
 

shaeff

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thanks! will, you also need a new fusible link for the engine bay fuse box. it's been finicky. i took a look at it, and it seems as if someone shorted it out at some point (shorting the battery to ground? or alternator maybe?).

sometimes the car won't start, so you have to wiggle it a bit. it's only a few dollars from Toyota. grab one when you can. :)

-shaeff
 

s383mmber1

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Yeah one of my friends put the battery on the wrong terminals, twice.

:sarcasm:

I hope all goes well for tommarow! I feel terrible about the whole forgetting to go to the bank tommarow, but you know im not going anywere fast :)
 

shaeff

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and i know where you live. ;) haha.

i'll briefly explain how to remove the fusible link, as it doesn't just pull out-

pull the cover of the fuse box, remove the (three?) 10 mm bolts that hold it in. flip it over, use a small screwdriver to press the tabs for that area of the box to separate from the other larger area.

then you get to the fusible link. it's held in by two 8 or 10mm bolts. remove those, replace the link, put the bolts back in, pop it back together, bolt it in, and put the top back on.

for someone who's never done it before, it might take up to a half hour. (sometimes the two sections of the fuse box don't like to separate)

gotta go- expect us around 8-830 if all goes well. (in other words, i need to be out of bed in two hours! shit!

-shaeff