Wheel Fitment & Question Thread
- Thread starter BorHor
- Start date
than how in the freakin hell did this guy do it. I must warn you this is the most terrible excuse for a mk3 that I have seen in a long time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXSnPEhhrKg&feature=fvwrel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXSnPEhhrKg&feature=fvwrel
hatchet9mm;1670336 said:
---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:16 PM ----------
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hatchet9mm;1670316 said:
You need wheel adapters. Find the offset of the iroc wheels and whether they will rub or not can be determined.
rodel;1669824 said:
Thanks Rodel. The +32/+38 would be pretty equal to each other as far as being flush with the body because I have a wider wheel in the back correct? Would a +32/+30 work as well or would the rear be getting too close to fender?
nctexan;1670879 said:
The setup below, which you mentioned in post #2197, will actually not be "flush" with the body. The front is about 10mm shy from flush with the body; rear is about 20mm shy of flush.
F: 18 x 8.5 +32 w/ 245/40/18
R: 18 x 9.5 + 38 w/ 275/35/18
The setup below that you asked about in post #2204 will not have fitment problems.
18x8.5+32 w/ 245/40/18
18x9.5+30 rear with 275/35
Ok. Please bear with me because I know I still haven't fully grasped the relationship between offset, wheel width, and tire width when it comes to creating a "flush" appearance on the supra.
So in keeping the same wheel widths (8.5 front, 9.5 rear), if I were to reduce offsets to as close to +22 front/ +18 as possible, respectively, then I be closer to achieving the flush goal, correct?
In other words proceeding with an offered +25/+20 option in my wheels of choice (Emotion XT7's), I'd be pretty darn close to "flush" with the same tire choices (245/40/18; 275/35/18)?
So in keeping the same wheel widths (8.5 front, 9.5 rear), if I were to reduce offsets to as close to +22 front/ +18 as possible, respectively, then I be closer to achieving the flush goal, correct?
In other words proceeding with an offered +25/+20 option in my wheels of choice (Emotion XT7's), I'd be pretty darn close to "flush" with the same tire choices (245/40/18; 275/35/18)?
offset is the distance of where the hub would meet up with the wheel with respect to the center of the wheel in mm. so for example a 8.5" wheel with a +22 offset would reach 107.95mm (4.25inch for half the wheel width) - 22mm (0.87inch) = 85.95mm from the hub. and a -10 offset for example be 107.95mm + 10mm from the hub get it? lol so just go out and measure and you'll find out.
but yea ur choices would be closer to flush.. cant help you with tires size though.. i dont know too much about that
but yea ur choices would be closer to flush.. cant help you with tires size though.. i dont know too much about that
Cool, thanks Kevin. So in other words, the only other data I need is the distance from the hub face to wherever I judge the plane of the car body to be. Then, for example, I would subtract 85.95mm from whatever the hub to fender distance is and I could determine how flush the wheel face would sit relative to the body, with a result of 0 being "perfectly" flush.
So this is what I'm trying to run then:
F: 18 x 8.5 +25 w/ 245/40/18
R: 18 x 9.5 + 20 w/ 275/35/18
Will I have any issues?
So this is what I'm trying to run then:
F: 18 x 8.5 +25 w/ 245/40/18
R: 18 x 9.5 + 20 w/ 275/35/18
Will I have any issues?
Last edited:
nctexan;1671116 said:
LOL. Kevin and you got me confused. Generally speaking, given that you have several wheels with the same width, the lower number (offset) the more the wheel will stick out. The higher the number, the more the wheel will go inside the wheel well).
Why don't you considering studying this below.
What is offset?
The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types.
Zero offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
Positive offset
The hub mounting surface is toward the front, or face, of the wheel.
Negative offset
The hub mounting surface is toward the back, or brake side, of the wheel's centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are generally a negative offset.
You may wanna consider rolling your front and rear fenders for the setup.nctexan;1671116 said:
rodel;1671384 said:LOL. Kevin and you got me confused. Generally speaking, given that you have several wheels with the same width, the lower number (offset) the more the wheel will stick out. The higher the number, the more the wheel will go inside the wheel well).
Why don't you considering studying this below.
What is offset?
The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types.
Zero offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
Positive offset
The hub mounting surface is toward the front, or face, of the wheel.
Negative offset
The hub mounting surface is toward the back, or brake side, of the wheel's centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are generally a negative offset.
You may wanna consider rolling your front and rear fenders for the setup.
thats what i meant lol
Stop making it so complicated, it's easy to do. Measure, roll, fit, then hammer when that's not enough lol.
If you need help with the math just use an online calculator.
http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
BTW, 10.5 and 11.5" Equip, single digit offsets...
If you need help with the math just use an online calculator.
http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
BTW, 10.5 and 11.5" Equip, single digit offsets...
Hey there, was picking out my first set of wheels and i think i'm set on pair. They're 17x9 +24 up front and 17x10 +20 in the rear, i'm going for a slammed and flush look so i'm fully prepared to roll my fenders, just wondering if you guys could advise me on what tires to run with this setup?
tried searching this thread for ccw's. I plan on purchasing a set for the mk3 however im not too sure what size I want to run. I was thinking around the 17-18area I want a staggered look with a nice lip in the rear and a smaller lip in he front. I dont want to have to run negative camber to run these and or have to do fendor rolling. Functionality is a must so no rubs please. Of course Id like to run as wide as I can in the rear without having to compromise tire stretching and would like to have a decent tire wall as well. Fronts arent too important width wise just need a decent staggered look.
I have looked at the sizes on the OPs post and I was thinking of a few different variations but I also wanted some of your input as well. Wheels I plan on getting are either the classics or lm20. TIA
I have looked at the sizes on the OPs post and I was thinking of a few different variations but I also wanted some of your input as well. Wheels I plan on getting are either the classics or lm20. TIA
destrux;1671668 said:
Did you ever read the OP's original post? Not only does it have the exact wheel size your looking for but it also happens to be the OPs wheel size. I havent seen him mention anything about camber adjustments or fender rolling. However, the OP seems to be running 225 not too sure if its because with that wheel size a 245 rubs? So thats probably the only thing you need answered.
As far as fendor rolling its actually not too hard as long as you know what your doing obviously. It doesnt take too long and the hardest thing imho is not cracking the paint. I havent done a supra yet but ive done evos and the hardest thing is heating the paint with a heat gun just right and rolling it at the same time. Also the tack welds need to careful with. Most fendor rollers charge anywhere from 100-250 for the rear fendors.
Shops really charge $50-125 per corner over there? :aigo:
The A70 has issues most other cars don't, the high trim, tabs in front, and fender well bumps in the rear depending on how low you want to go.
More pics...
The A70 has issues most other cars don't, the high trim, tabs in front, and fender well bumps in the rear depending on how low you want to go.
More pics...
projectsupra;1671457 said:
That's pretty crazy. Time for wide body.
Front: Groupbuy: S2 Style Front Wide Body Fenders by Shineautoproject
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...e-Front-Wide-Body-Fenders-by-Shineautoproject
Rear: Kaze Aerocraft style rear widebody fenders by Shineautoproject
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?133685-Shineautoproject-Holiday-Sale
Actually they very rarely rub, no need for a widebody on my car.
As for Shine's knock-offs, sorry don't want or need them. I make my own F&R fenders, everyone will see that Supra soon enough though.
As for Shine's knock-offs, sorry don't want or need them. I make my own F&R fenders, everyone will see that Supra soon enough though.