what kinda oil to use in 1j?

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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The TRSM spec for the 7M is 4.3 psi or more at idle and 36-71 psi at 3000 rpm. What are you showing for pressure at these rpm ranges?

The 7M oil system is a high volume, low pressure system...if your oil pressure is in spec, there is no problem. Like I said, if you are getting high pressures due to the resistance through the bearings from a high viscosity oil...that is not necessarily a good thing.
 

suprahero

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Patience Mr. Mioggi...................:biglaugh:

I know it tries your patience repeating yourself over and over and over again and again and again JJ, but alot of us really do appreciate yours and Jdubs comments on subjects that we're less educated on. Please count to ten and keep helping us out....................:bowdown:
 

jdub

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LOL...had to bite my tongue on that sig ;)

I think at least a few of the guys are picking up on the clue...I know this thread peaked Reaper's interest. And that is a good thing. :icon_bigg
 

86_sports_1jz

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Aug 27, 2006
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hey jdub i can't find the german castrol oil anywhere. i went to 2 different autozones, 2 o'reily's, advance auto, and nappa. any other places possibily? if not what kinda oil should i run then? i'm also thinking about running lucs additives w/ the motor oil i use, is it okay to run that stuff w/ a turbo motor? at the first oil change i'm thinking about flushing the engine out w/ motor flush but i'm not sure if i can use that stuff. what should i use to flush turbo engine out?
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
bountykilla0118 said:
:icon_razz yea u are right but i m sure the changed were for the best flow and lubrication. I just like to give people a hard time when they say something will or has happened but no actual proof to support their ideas . For those who might not have caught what i was saying when i said the "little person from another planet" I simply means no proof that 20w-50 is bad for our engines

Good grief, you can't be serious. There's all kinds of proof. You need to spend the $100 and join the SAE so you can have access to their tech papers. You make it sound as if this stuff is rocket science or some sort of ooga-booga. It may be to you due your lack of knowledge but it's certainly not to the tribologists and automotive engineers who've been studying it for almost 100 years.
 

shaeff

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jamesdem1123 said:
well i was using 15w-50 and switched to like 5w-40 and noticed a drop in pressure at idle. dont think thats very positive.

although Jdub stated the exact same thing in technical terms, i'll rephrase:

pressure is resistance to flow

keep that in mind. ;)

and for what it's worth, after reading many, MANY posts by both jetjock and jdub, i've switched from mobil 1 10w30 synthetic to the german castrol that they have both mentioned countless times. i also switched to wix filters some time ago, from mobil 1. when money allows, i'll be going the canton route. :)

-shaeff
 

jdub

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Do your motor a favor and don't run Lucas:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

AutoZone should have the German Castrol...if not, they can order it. Mobile 1 is a good oil...I'd use the 0W-30. Pennzoil Platinum is a good choice. If you want to clean your motor out, get Redline 5W-30...the ester base will dissolve most build-ups over time. Not a big believer in using a straight engine flush.
 

bountykilla0118

In Pursuit of 500rwhp
Jul 16, 2005
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jetjock said:
Good grief, you can't be serious. There's all kinds of proof. You need to spend the $100 and join the SAE so you can have access to their tech papers. You make it sound as if this stuff is rocket science or some sort of ooga-booga. It may be to you due your lack of knowledge but it's certainly not to the tribologists and automotive engineers who've been studying it for almost 100 years.


Easy killer i never said i knew any thing all i did was bounce ideas off of Jdub b/c he has alot of info.

What is the purpose of the forum??????? Or is this some type of lecture where if you dont have enough book knowledge you cant ask questions and make statements.....

its just friendly debate asking for actual proof. I dont doubt what he has provided i like the info hence the comment i said "i see the light". I dont think of it as rocket science i think of simple math where i see hmmm let say

x(0w oil viscosity) + a(our oil design) = z(actual wear over time)
x(5w oil viscosity) + a(our oil design) = z(actual wear over time)
x(10x oil viscosity) + a(our oil design) = z(actual wear over time)
x(15w oil viscosity) + a(our oil design) = z(actual wear over time)
x(20w oil viscosity) + a(our oil design) = z(actual wear over time)

you can throw as many factors or whatever else you want in the equation. But again i do see the light. Its just that alot of turbo people seem to think that 20w-50 is great during the summer but there are alot of other that think the thinner the better and neither have actual proof.

It would be nice to the whole "scientific method" from the hypothesis all the way down to proven over and over again with the same results. Then call it fact until then its a theory and very good one. I am using 10w-30 right now because of the temperature if that helps :icon_bigg
 

jdub

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jetjock said:
There's all kinds of proof. You need to spend the $100 and join the SAE so you can have access to their tech papers.


JJ is correct on this...most of the stuff I was able to see abstracts on were the SAE tech papers. I'm not a member, so it's a moot point even mentioning them in my previous posts. Plus, like I said before, it's impossible to prove on the 7M unless a controlled study is done.

Science is not theory...the principles are there for anyone to research. If you want proof in the form of test data, join the SAE.

What I don't like is these kind of statements:
"well i was using 15w-50 and switched to like 5w-40 and noticed a drop in pressure at idle. dont think thats very positive."
No reason why, no useful psi numbers, no TRSM reference, not even the brand of oil used...pure opinion with nothing to back it up.

Doc Haas (as previously mentioned) has some very high priced "toys"...he is one of a very few people I know that I will believe what he says about oil without question (JJ is another)...except maybe to get him to elaborate. He has been studying oil for many, many years and is running a low viscosity oil in a Ferrari and Lambo...he's very pleased with the results. He's showing no wear metal in his analysis (which he does every 2000 miles). Think he'd risk a motor that calls for 60W oil and is worth a 100 times our puny 7M? I don't think so.

There is one thing that I alluded to in a previous post...you want the oil that is good for your situation. A 30W might not be it...it might take a 40W to get pressures in the TRSM spec. Money may be an issue, so running a pure syn oil might be out of your price range. What you need to do is look at the variables that affect your car and make an informed decision. That should include questioning yourself as to why you've used a certain oil in the past...experience is fine, but backing it up with the science and the specs on the oil itself is even better. Just my 2 cents ;)
 

bountykilla0118

In Pursuit of 500rwhp
Jul 16, 2005
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point well taken but you know there are always counter arguments for example upgradedsupra using 20w-50 vs the lambo guy using lower viscosity oil and duane sees good results ...... I wish he would chime in on this topic to say why he uses 20w-50 maybe there is something in his setup that calls for it i dunno but i would like to know :)
 

suprahero

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That's what I've been using, but now I see it's not a true synthetic. I'm going to switch to the Royal Purple. O'reily's sells it here locally and it should do the job...................lol
 

The Reaper

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Jan 10, 2006
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yea jdub it did spark my interest. as i just got a good 1J and want to keep it that way and also i love to learn new things......it was a damn good read and now im bored cause no other topics have good reads like that LOL

i will try the german castrol in my new 1J