what kinda oil to use in 1j?

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Been using 0W30 since I re-built my motor...JetJock has been using it for years. Runs great. The 50W oil is better is an "old school" thing from many, many years ago. Like I said, based on what I know about oil now, I feel the same way as you about a 50W multi-grade...it has no place in a high performance motor ;)

BTW - the German Castrol has a viscosity of 12.1 cst at 100 deg C...that puts it at the top of the viscosity range for a 30W. It's pretty close to a 40W oil
 

RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
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Walmart Supertech conventional + Champion filter changed twice a year.

And in the summer time, straight Lucas for ULTIMATE protection (20,000w-500,000?)!!!1!!!!!FTW!


I only run full synthetic Mobile1 here, I bought a lot of the old stock in the older bottles so I guess it's still Group IV, 10w-30/15w-50 here. The Mobile1 stuff 15w-50 seems thinner than a lot of other 15w oils I've used.
 

jdub

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Take a look at this data sheet on Mobile 1 EP:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_Extended_Performance.asp

Mobile 1 15W-50 has a viscosity of 138 cst and 10W-30 has a viscosity of 66.1 cst at 40 deg C (104 deg F)...that puts the 15W-50 at over twice the thickness of the 10W-30 when "cold"...if you want to call 104 deg F outside cold ;)

At 100 deg C (operating temp), the 15W-50 has a viscosity of 18 cst...right in the middle of a 50W spec. The 10W-30 has a viscosity of 10.7 cst...that's on the low side of a 30W spec.

if you have the older Mobile 1, these specs may not be completely accurate for the oil you have...you likely do have the PAO based oil if you bought it over 3 months ago. But you get the idea of how much thicker a 50W is when "cold".

If you didn't know - the Wal-Mart SuperTech is a Champion filter ;)
Actually a pretty good filter...heck of a lot better than a Fram!
 

Big Wang Bandit

You Can't Quit Me Baby
Feb 21, 2006
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Well do you know what group the Eunosoil is based in Jdub?

That is what my Car has been run its entire life apperentally.

Its 0w50 weight. Not sure if itsan oil I want to run to 5000 miles with a filter change.
 

jdub

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I tried to find some info on that oil when you posted it the 1st time above...no luck w/ Google.

Where do you buy it at?

A 0W-50 is not very common...there has to be a lot of viscosity improvers in that oil to make it behave like a 0W cold and go to a 50W at operating temps. Not that that's a bad thing, but it is a big range to cover for a motor oil.
 

jdub

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HellsLegion said:
Apperentally Its just a JDM German Castrol.

That works =]


Here's what I found out...Eneos is the marketing name for Nippon Oil (used be called Nippon Mitsubishi Oil). They are one of the big OEM suppliers to the Japanese automakers and provide the initial fill oil for Toyota. As far as the base stock for their oils, the website did not provide any data sheets. Since they are a fairly new player in the USA, there is not any analysis or a whole lot of experience with their oil. I am sure they are quality oils. They are a major player, with a full range of oils available (at least in Japan). They are not a small boutique company by any stretch of the imagination.

Edit: Found a data sheet on the Nippon UK website:
http://www.eneos.eu/product/0w50.html
It has 104 cst (1 cSt = 1 mm2/s) at 40 deg C and 18 cst at 100 deg C....that's still quite a bit higher than the 10W-30 from above.
Looks like it's at least a Group IV oil, otherwise the European Union would not let them advertise as such.

BTW - while I was there I took a look at the Eneos 5W-30...it has a 40 dec C viscosity of 71.8 and a 100 deg c viscosity of 12.0. That's very close to the German Castrol spec...a little thicker at 40 Deg C and almost identical at operating temp. I'd like to see an analysis for this oil to see what's in the additive pack ;)
 

bountykilla0118

In Pursuit of 500rwhp
Jul 16, 2005
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jdub said:
Take a look at this data sheet on Mobile 1 EP:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_Extended_Performance.asp

Mobile 1 15W-50 has a viscosity of 138 cst and 10W-30 has a viscosity of 66.1 cst at 40 deg C (104 deg F)...that puts the 15W-50 at over twice the thickness of the 10W-30 when "cold"...if you want to call 104 deg F outside cold ;)

At 100 deg C (operating temp), the 15W-50 has a viscosity of 18 cst...right in the middle of a 50W spec. The 10W-30 has a viscosity of 10.7 cst...that's on the low side of a 30W spec.

if you have the older Mobile 1, these specs may not be completely accurate for the oil you have...you likely do have the PAO based oil if you bought it over 3 months ago. But you get the idea of how much thicker a 50W is when "cold".

If you didn't know - the Wal-Mart SuperTech is a Champion filter ;)
Actually a pretty good filter...heck of a lot better than a Fram!


Hey buddy how is life treating u? Long time no debating between you and I lol can you post the actual damage or better yet the wear caused by the different oil viscosity on our Toyota bearings for the sake of "facts" and not hypothesis’s (an educated guess of what might happen) which is all that I see when it comes to the question “what oil should I use?” If we open our dealer handbook it tells you (the reader) that if temperature exceeds 75 degrees before our next oil change we should use 20w-50.
 

jdub

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bountykilla0118 said:
Hey buddy how is life treating u? Long time no debating between you and I lol can you post the actual damage or better yet the wear caused by the different oil viscosity on our Toyota bearings for the sake of "facts" and not hypothesis’s (an educated guess of what might happen) which is all that I see when it comes to the question “what oil should I use?” If we open our dealer handbook it tells you (the reader) that if temperature exceeds 75 degrees before our next oil change we should use 20w-50.


No debate necessary...the science of modern motor oil applies to any bearing in any engine. I've done a lot of research on the subject and try to present the info as I see it...no more, no less. You can take what I have to say with a grain of salt if you wish. Keep in mind the Mk III owner's manual was published almost 20 years ago...lubrication technology has come a long way ;)
 

bountykilla0118

In Pursuit of 500rwhp
Jul 16, 2005
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:icon_razz yea u are right but i m sure the changed were for the best flow and lubrication. I just like to give people a hard time when they say something will or has happened but no actual proof to support their ideas .....

For an example life in space. I honestly believe that aleins are real but i never seen one.Back to oil ...

You believe 20w-50 is the most terrible oil for our motors and you give great reasons why you believe that but yet you nor anyone else has brought foward a little person from another planet :)

For those who might not have caught what i was saying when i said the "little person from another planet" I simply means no proof that 20w-50 is bad for our engines
 

rumptis

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Aug 16, 2005
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I think the 0w scares people making them think its really thin all of the time....what you need to understand is that the 0w is referring to the viscosity when its cold so it flows like a 0w oil when cold which means it will flow much better at cold start up which is what you want and the other number is the rating at operating temps. So a 0w-30 weight oil once up to temp it will flow the same as a 10w-40, like jdub said...in the German Castrol the 0w-30 is closer the a 40 weight.

Make Sence?
 

jdub

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bountykilla0118 said:
:icon_razz yea u are right but i m sure the changed were for the best flow and lubrication. I just like to give people a hard time when they say something will or has happened but no actual proof to support their ideas .....

For an example life in space. I honestly believe that aleins are real but i never seen one.Back to oil ...

You believe 20w-50 is the most terrible oil for our motors and you give great reasons why you believe that but yet you nor anyone else has brought foward a little person from another planet :)

For those who might not have caught what i was saying when i said the "little person from another planet" I simply means no proof that 20w-50 is bad for our engines



Well actually I've never said "OMG you gonna burn up your bearings" or "you got rod knock because you used 50W"...as in the previous thread we were involved in concerning oil, I said (from what I've learned) that a 50W is not optimum for our motors. And the reasoning was due to the flow characteristics of a 30W vs. a 5W oil.

Aaron is using a 50W with success...based on his experience, that's what works for him...would I ever call him an idiot for doing so? No friggin way...Aaron knows what he is doing. We may disagree on some things, but I have a lot of respect for Aaron. The same for the question on the Eneos oil above...Kyle had a valid question on the 0W-50 oil he was using and I was able to dig up some info on it. Like I said before, at least it's a 0w-50 and will flow better cold...it looks like a pretty good oil too. But for me I would choose the Eneos 5W-30 and would like more info on the additive pack. I just happened to find the data so Kyle could make a more informed choice.

Concerning catching those "little green men"...to prove my point using that method, I would have to tear down my very expensive motor. As much as I too would like to see the condition of my bearings, I just can't do that. It would be a good bet though that my motor will not fail due to the bearings ;)

rumptis - you are correct. The "0W" is what throws people off...the German Castrol is a great example, the oil is closer to a 40W when at operating temps...it is definitely not "thin". The thing to keep in mind is oil never thickens when it gets hot...it always thins down the spec range shown in the 2nd number. Cold oil is thicker, hot oil is thinner regardless of grade ;)


bigaaron said:
Jdub is the most well informed guy around!
......I.....must....resist......must.....50wt......nooooooo

Aaron - Thanks!.... LOL :runaway: