what kinda oil to use in 1j?

The Reaper

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yea it will be fine bro

i bet you didn't think this would be such a hot topic LOL

you were thinking 3 posts and thats it HAHA
 

jdub

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86_sports_1jz said:
is it okay to use even if my engine is stock cuz the oil is so thin?


Reaper is right...it would be a good choice.

Keep in mind the German Castrol is not "thin" by any stretch...in fact, at operating temp (100 deg C) it's at the top of a 30W viscosity spec...it's thicker than most 30W multi-grade oils out there. Don't let the "0W" throw you off...that's how the oil behaves when "cold".
 

The Reaper

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yea those numbers never did make sense

im guessing it acts like a 0 weight oil when cold and a 30 weight oil when hot

that is if its 0w30
 

jdub

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That is correct...but, oil never thickens as it gets hot, the viscosity (as measured in centistrokes or cst) drops to the spec shown in the 2nd number on the bottle. In this case, a 30W. That's why looking at the data sheets is a good idea...they show the viscosity at 40 deg C and 100 deg C.

Oil is much thicker cold than when hot. If you want to see it for yourself, pour some in a pan at room temp...then put the bottle in the freezer for an hour and pour again. ;)
 

The Reaper

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oh yea i know its thicker when cold i think ANYTHING is thicker when cold LOL well anything liquid

so i think im gonna be going with the 0w30 German Castrol

i was just in AZ last night and forgot to check the shelves for it i was soo mad LOL

oh yea and no problem 86
 

jdub

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Just checking ;)
I do believe you got the idea man...that's great! That link you posted is also very good...an excellent start on learning about this kind of thing.
 

The Reaper

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yea i get the idea now i knew the first was cold and the other hot when i was 8 but i didn't know the MORE DETAILED part of it so 16 years later i finally get it HAHAHA
 

trydrew

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If you look at what weight of oil automakers are using these days compared to years past, you'll see that they recommend much thinner oils now. My sister's Civic hybrid calls for 0W-20. Granted that engine will never get too hot, it still uses a 0W. Main reason? Well almost every time you stop, so does the engine. As soon as you hit the gas, its started and already revving.

Now this process will take place far more often when the engine is 'hot', but the oil still needs to make it back to the bearings asap once the engine pops back to life. Just a little something to think about.
 

bountykilla0118

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But where do you draw the line pressure does affect flow and flow does effect pressure. I m sure the people who made the civic built it for that specific oil viscosity.

Does toyota say what oil to use in the 1jz? How comes the 7m does not have a specific viscosity? They simply say 20w-50 all the way down to 0w-30 depending on temperature. I think the 2jz is 5w-30 .... correct me if i am wrong
 

trydrew

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My 90' Turbo owner's manual has a sticker in both spots that tell the recommended viscosity. It recommends 5w-30 for anything below 50*F and 10W-30(and 40) for anything over 0*F. Maybe it was printed in the 91-92 owners manual, idk.
 

jdub

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There were very few (if any) "0W" grade oils in the late 80's-early 90's...that's why you won't see them in our manuals. Lets look at the difference between Mobile 1 0W-30 and 10W-30:

Mobile 1 0W-30
Viscosity @ 40 deg C 63.1 cst........Viscosity @ 100 deg C 11.0 cst
Viscosity Index 169.......Pour point -54 deg C

Mobile 1 10W-30
Viscosity @ 40 deg C 62 cst........Viscosity @ 100 deg C 10.0 cst
Viscosity Index 147.......Pour point -45 deg C

Interesting...the 10W-30 is actually a bit thinner at both 40 AND 100 deg C. So WTF over? When an oil is graded to SAE spec, it has to meet total requirements for that grade. Look at the pour points...the 0W-30 is at a lower temp. The Viscosity Index is higher due to the larger range the oil has to cover.

A modern 0W-30 will cover requirements for our motors and, in this case, is actually a bit thicker than the 10W-30. So why not use it above the 50 deg F our manual recommends for 5W-30...there's no reason not to. The 10W-30 is shown good for a range of 0 deg F past 100 deg F in our manuals...looking at the data on the 0W-30, it should easily cover the same range due to it's higher viscosity. This is why you want to look at the data sheets to get the real story. The grade on the bottle is only one piece of the puzzle.
 

jetjock

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Lol. Tis true. Jetjock no longer has much to say about oil because Jdub has a good handle on it and because you can lead a horse to water....

All he'll say is he's currently running a Grp III 5-20, down from a PAO 0-30 that he, as was pointed out, ran for years. It'll be back to the GC 0-30 come summer....maybe. Depends on how the analysis turns out on the 5-20 but GC gave the lowest wear of any oil he tested, at least in his 7M.
 

jdub

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Aww...I'm not always right you know ;)
However, I do try to be through....lol.

JJ - you've probably forgot more about oil than I'll ever know ;)
 

jetjock

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You're doing well Grasshopper ;). Since Doc Hass was referenced it's interesting to note he runs a 5-20 in his Ferraris, which I believe spec a 50W or 60W from the factory. One really has to believe in the science behind this stuff to risk an Enzo but last I heard he's happy with the results.
 

jdub

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Yep and if I remember correctly the good Dr's wife has a Lamborghini Murcielago that's running Redline 5W-20. He changed it from M1 0W-30 because of a slight valve noise...the 5W-20 made it run a lot quieter.